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THE PLACE Location: 717 SE Main St. Portland OR 97214 (map) - Around the corner from Kokiyo Teriyaki and up the stairs. Cost to play games is $5 for Ordo Members, $2 for Ordo Warlord Champions, and FREE for Emperors! As always, your first Game Night is FREE! THE GAMES If you're looking to game we will be here. Opting to lay low? Stay home and stay safe, we'll catch you next time. THE MISSION Games we play: All, with a focus on Warhammer 40k, Bloodbowl, Necromunda, War Cry, board games and more. While it is possible to find a pickup game at Game Night, it is much better to pre-arrange a game before coming down. New players are always welcome, feel free to stop by and check it out. BUT WHAT ABOUT COVID-19? Due to the current Multnomah county mask mandate, all attendees must wear masks. Players are encouraged to spread out their games and avoid congestion. Do not attend game night if you experience any of the symptoms found here. GAME NIGHT EXPECTATIONS If the pandemic has taught us anything, it’s taught us we don’t need more stress in our lives. As a result, Ordo is expecting an even greater level of friendliness and fellowship at Game Night than our normal high expectations. Please be aware that as always, the Czar has the ability to ask a player to leave if the Czar feels it necessary. Games are meant to be fun, so let’s have fun.

Starting a log of my progress on my putrid choir. These 3 guys where my start back into painting after a long break. I am going for a putrid choir look (lighter green with blue rusty highlights). I color in layers- base, highlight, wash, highlight and pick out the fiddly bits. I felt pretty good how these came out but there is more i can learn as i go.

Just gonna drop this here for funzies. Picked up some additions for the Rout. I plan to paint them to tabletop quality by the end of January.

Hello there all you hammers! I would like to introduce our team, Just the Dickel! We are @DisruptiveConduct - Khan @Dark Trainer - Matt @Atomic - Marshall @MOONEY - David We will be using this thread to post our lists. Talk about match ups. Design our team display boards. Smack talk other teams. All the good stuff! Join us in our road to OFCC!

So I suppose I should get to this log thing. I picked up Icestorm back shortly after it came out, but took about a year to get it together. Suddenly, tragically, and somewhat dramatically, WFB imploded. After the summer off, the Precipitation Canine announced that he would be starting up an escalation league. Well, there was the opportunity, to learn something new, to play more games with a few kindred souls, and to enjoy my hobby again! This Blog will serve to track progress with this hobby project, in a twofold effort - to play more, and paint more! Collection (Status) Fusilier w/Combi (Painted and based, Tabletop Standard) Fusilier w/Combi (Painted and based, Tabletop Standard) Fusilier w/Combi (Painted and based, Tabletop Standard) Fusilier Hacker (Painted and based, Tabletop Standard) Fusilier w/HMG (Painted and based, Tabletop Standard) Auxilia w/Bot (Painted and based, Tabletop Standard) Auxilia w/Bot (Painted and based, Tabletop Standard) Peacemaker w/Bot (Painted and based, Tabletop Standard) Sierra Reaction Rembot (Painted and based, Tabletop Standard) Pathfinder FO Rembot (Painted and based, Tabletop Standard) Hexa w/Spitfire (Painted and based, Tabletop Standard) Bolt w/Combi/Light Shotgun (Painted and based, Tabletop Standard) Bolt w/Combi/Light Shotgun (Painted and based, Tabletop Standard) Bolt w/Combi/Light Shotgun (Painted and based, Tabletop Standard) Bolt w/MSR (Painted and Based, needs touch-ups and recoat with varnish) Indigo Bipandra (Painted and based, Tabletop Standard) Akali Sikh (Painted and Washed) ORC Troop (basecoats) Nisse w/MSR (basecoats, needs a headfin) Father Knight (basecoats) Akali Sikh w/Spitfire (basecoats) Fusilier w/Missile Launcher (basecoat) Fusilier w/MSR (basecoat) Fusilier Angus (basecoats) Kirpal Singh (Basecoats) Bolt Cosplay/Gencon ed (basecoats) Aquila Guard w/HMG (Basecoats) Akali Sikh w/Combi (primed) Aquila Guard w/MULTI (primed) Swiss Guard w/ML (assembled) Bolt w/Spitfire (primed) Bounty Hunter w/BS (primed) Indigo Spec-Ops (primed) Joan of Arc LE (assembled) Guarda de Assaulto w/Bot (Primed) Bolt w/BS (primed) Cutter Tag (primed) Hexa w/MSR (assembled) Auxbot (primed) Palbot (primed) Palbot (primed) Nisse w/HMG (primed) Bolt w/ML (primed) Knight of Santiago w/Combi (Primed) Knight of Santiago w/Spitfire (Primed) Knight of Santiago w/Sword (unassembled) Knight of Santiago w/BS (unassembled) CSU (unassembled) Trauma-Doc (unassembled) I've been on an assembly kick lately, having a backlog of Nomads to assemble for the wife (future blog opp? maybe). The painted and based section is the list I ran at Rampage. My Bolt sniper has a couple wear spots, looks like the clear coat didn't take as well as I wanted. As for models on deck, to finish rounding out my NCA, I need for the following: Fusilier/ML Fusilier/MSR Fusilier Angus Bolt/Spitfire Bolt/ML Bolt/BS Swiss Guard ML Aquila MULTI Aquila HMG CSU Trauma Doc (as much as it pains me) Hexa MSR Palbotx2 Next Update: Pics or it didn't happen.

ALWAYS. BE. PAINTING. Turning the corner on any painting project is a great feeling. If you're anything like me, you never really feel accomplished until you start to see the end of the project in the distance. Well, I had that moment this week with @Ziggens' Gnomes. After finishing a few sample models, a Blitzer and Longbeard, I focused my attention on completing the contraptions first. This included the remaining Blitzer and two Troll Slayers. I'm not including the Star Players that Ziggens gave me; those will be covered in a future blog post. This entry is labeled 'Time Bandits' as that is the name of Ziggens' team in the current Ordo Blood Bowl League Super League. Time Bandits are a Dwarf team, and as a result, most of my references to the Gnomes are in Dwarf terms. In this post I will cover painting the Blitzers, Troll Slayers, Runners, Longbeards and the head coach. First, we have the completed Blitzers: The Blitzers are identified by the red color located on the base mushroom, the color added to each side of the number, as well as the gloss red boiler in the center of the torso. The overall scheme for all the contraptions, including the Star Players and the Troll Slayers, was to spray paint with the satin olive green paint; next, the model was washed liberally with Citadel Nuln Oil wash. Next, the model was washed with a mix I made of Vallejo Model Color Turquoise, Nuln Oil, water and Citadel Lahmian Medium. Don't ask me to give you recipe, it's always different and really mixed by sight. The turquoise wash is difficult to see in the Blitzers pic above. The Blitzers were then stipled with Citadel Ironbreaker, and Citadel Typhus Corrosion was added to the crevices to create dirt and wear. A small amount of Citadel Dry Ryza Rust was added in places to give another textural element. With the extensive use of the green across the majority of the model, I wanted to break the monotony with the area beneath the Gnome's controllers. That is why I painted the area red, with a blended effect to imply glass, or any other substance that would look like a gem. However, the actual gloss is really there, I covered the area with clear nail polish to make the areas pop. This was done post sealant. The Gnome 'driver' was painted the same as the other gnome, except blue was used for his tunic. This was done to again to break up the green monotony. Below, you will see a pot of my precious turquoise wash, and a little detail from the legs of a Star Player: While the satin paint has it's disadvantages, the unintentional crackling effect is a welcome addition to weathered look. The picture above shows more of the blue tone, which helps to give the contraption's paint depth. I've become a big fan recently of using micro washed to create texture on flat surfaces. The turquoise wash is an example, and I'll post a few additional examples in the Art of War forum soon. The Troll Slayers were completed at the same time as the Blitzers. I followed the same recipe for the armor, the only significant exceptions being the different beard color and a color change to denote the different position. First, here are the Troll Slayers: Much like the Blitzers, I have used a color, in this case blue, to denote the position. In this case, blue was used as blue is the unofficial color of special basic (not Star) players. Blue was used in several places; there is a blue indicator on both sides of the number, the blue and orange mushroom on the base, and the blue shield protecting the Gnome driver. Lastly, while not blue, what real Troll Slayer doesn't have an orange beard? I've painted the Troll Slayer beards orange to match this familiar look. The Troll Slayer models include a large stone hammer to smash opponents, representing the player's frenzy. After sealant application, I added Citadel Blood For The Blood God to the hammers, as these Gnomes would clearly be causing major damage to Ziggens' opponents. When Ziggens and I were discussing his team originally, and how they would look, we didn't really discuss the Runners. In the lot of Gnomes provided, two models stood out as the Runners. These little guys are holding, or rather, cherishing the ball they are holding. Short (get it?) of the ball and the white indicators on the base, nothing else denotes these guys as Runners. The Runners were painted at the same time as the Longbeards with the same recipe. As a reminder, that recipe was simply the satin Olive spray, P3 Midland Flesh, Vallejo Game Color Scarlett Red, Citadel Ironbreaker, Citadel Administratum Grey, and P3 Greatcoat Grey. The ball was painted with P3 Bootstrap Leather, P3 Hammerfall Khaki, and a quick highlight of Vallejo Game Color Elven Flesh. Like the rest, the model has a liberal wash of Nuln Oil, before a single highlight of the base coat. Runners: The Longbeards are next, and like the Runners, they followed the basic recipe for the non-contraptions. Ziggens has one ST4 Dwarf Longbeard, so I made sure to number the meanest looking Gnome to match that player. He's more heavily armored and ready to destroy opponents tall and short. The eyes were a small challenge; I'm not terrific with eyes to begin with, but the smaller stature of the models made picking out the eyes a little difficult. I have tried a new technique for a while, and I do prefer it; I used to paint the eye black, then add a white to the middle, then a black dot in the middle. This was not very easy, as I often had the white covering a portion of the black border. What I do now is simply paint the eye area black, then add a white dot on the right and left side of the black. Much easier! The head coach looks like a tinkerer, fixing and innovating the contraption's abilities. This model was very simple, following the same recipe as the Longbeards. The one difference being the addition of the khaki work belt. The last picture for this post is the Time Bandits team. This picture represents the players that were active on Ziggens' roster as of 4/3/2018: The next blog post will feature the Star Players and the Deathroller! That will be the final post in the blog.

On Saturday, I will be at the club painting from 11:15 to 3 ish. I will be painting things for the OFCC. If you want an excuse to paint or come to the club to play. Come on Down.

Finally got the itch to start painting again. Finally finishing up some figures that have been a waiting for those last few touches like my Daktari!

Hello Everyone, I've been slowly (very slowly) working on my Op:Icestorm boxset and now actually got to the point that I'm read to start painting my PanO models. It's been a couple decades since I've painted models and I need some advice and refresher points. I have looked for painting guides online/youtube but they tend to be for airbrushers or more advanced painters; I'm looking for more basic guides using brush painting only. If anyone knows of a good website/blog/tutorial for infinity I would greatly appreciate it. A few questions: What is the best color for the primer, black or white? I'm guessing white? Do you first paint with the blue and then use a black wash to fill in all the little creases and lines or is it opposite of first paint in all the little creases and then dry brush over with blue? Or is there a better technique? Any advice on how to paint the standard black miniature stands that comes in the game for the Infinity world? I saw that some of you have cool specialized stands that look as part of the city-scape, but are there any ideas on blending a standard stand in with the city-scape? Thank you very much! Jim

Just wanted to drop in some pics from a test model I am doing for my first FSA models: Things I need to work on: Add glow to weapons so that they stand out - That's why I was a bit sloppy with the metal highlights. Straighten my white lines - The painters tape wasn't enough to prevent my lines from getting sloppy. Pretty much tried to fix it by eye which has my white lines a bit off. Add light glow to windows - Aren't many on this model but could help break up the model a bit. Figure out how I want my engine to look - Someone already pointed out that maybe I have the engine glow wrong (IE the claw like things around the main circle) but I like what I see so far. Just need to get the bottom part done so it looks finished. I intend to go back over my black highlights to make them a bit neater/thinner so that is still on the books. As stated, the weapons need something to make them stand out so I may be doing some red glow on the cannon ports. The silver Patches were my attempt to look like they had to do repairs without repainting the ship but I don't like how they turned out so I may get rid of that and use streaks/scrapes instead. I also intend to paint the base with a star field but I am not certain where I want to go with that. But essentially this will be my paint scheme for the rest of my models. I have a bunch of cruisers (heavy and regular), a squad of gunships, more frigates, a battle ship and battle cruisers to go through so my work is cut out for me for awhile. Thanks for looking.

Anyone picking this up? I know I am...

The 2014 OFCC did not produce the same kind of burnout and frustration with WFB that the aftermath of OFCC's past have for me. Where I once found exhaustion, I have found instead inspiration. Seeing all the armies on display over that weekend only encouraged me to broaden my horizons and expand from my trustworthy, stalwart, (tricksy) elves; into something completely different. Which brings me to Rattus norvegicus. The common brown rat. I'm talking Skaven here, people! I acquired the core of the army over a year ago in a BT pickup, at a heck of a discount. 20 Stormvermin 20 Plague Monks 16ish Night Runners Somewhere between 40-80 Clanrats/Slaves (mix of HW/Spear, looks like 2/3 sets of IoB) Rat Ogres Screaming bell (in pieces) Doomwheel HPA WLC Handful of weapon teams, chieftans, warlock engineers, characters, etc. My eye has been immediately drawn to Stormvermin, the quality of the kit is light years ahead of some of the older sclupts, such as Night Runners, Plague Monks, some of the Rat Ogres. As a result, I'm driving towards the look of a heavy Infantry list, backed up by some Clan Skyre tech to even the fields. I'm flirting with low/no magic, as well. Stay tuned for more!

So, I built a Space Marine captain out of spare bits. Considering he ended up looking like a model out of 2nd. Edition, I decided on something out of that time with bright colors and whatnot. The question I ask of you guys is, what kind of scheme would you like this guy to be painted in?