scottshoemaker Posted September 25, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 25, 2017 Masking, masking, masking...I recommend Silly Putty Prehighlighting Getting there. Not gunna lie, these are a pain in the arse. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WestRider Posted September 26, 2017 Report Share Posted September 26, 2017 Dude. How are you consistently getting such straight lines with silly putty? Those are coming out fantastic. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottshoemaker Posted September 26, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2017 I honestly don't worry about it. I paint the primer layer straight as I can then after all the airbrushing I'll touch it up 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottshoemaker Posted September 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 27, 2017 Quarters are mostly done, After our ghost tint discussion it got me thinking about using the brown for some definition shading. As long as I keep a light touch it works pretty good on both colors. I did one first, I'll do they rest next. 5 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottshoemaker Posted September 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 27, 2017 Snuck in a bit more during lunch. I finished the shading with the Brown Ghost tint. You can see it on the legs where it's most pronounced. IThe tint is also very glossy, so it tends to shine up on those areas. No matter, it'll all get sealed up. the other thing I found is that the tint works as a good filter for the areas od yellow that were highlighted. The yellow highlights lost some of their golden quality and looked more canary, but the tint did just enough to bring it back. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottshoemaker Posted September 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2017 Got the primer down on the backpacks and helmets. Sarge will be black, so it's not in this batch. Tried masking tape, but the tape wouldn't stick, so had to free hand. I've found that if you thin the paint with flow aid instead of anything else, it's easier to wipe off when you make a mistake, as long as you're quick about it. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottshoemaker Posted September 29, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2017 Made some decals, I found some excellent ones on bolterandchainsword, just mashed them together to make a single sheet for the laser printer 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottshoemaker Posted October 2, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2017 Put some pain in the arse decals on: 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WestRider Posted October 3, 2017 Report Share Posted October 3, 2017 Ooh, shiny! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottshoemaker Posted October 3, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2017 Squad Marking decals and gloss pin wash for definition shading done. Now I can start the brush work. I thought about making some more in depth articles on the stuff I've learned so far, with the decals especially but also showing this pin wash technique. What say you? 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainA Posted October 3, 2017 Report Share Posted October 3, 2017 1 hour ago, scottshoemaker said: Squad Marking decals and gloss pin wash for definition shading done. Now I can start the brush work. I thought about making some more in depth articles on the stuff I've learned so far, with the decals especially but also showing this pin wash technique. What say you? Love to hear about this. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
InfestedKerrigan Posted October 3, 2017 Report Share Posted October 3, 2017 4 hours ago, scottshoemaker said: What say you? So say we all. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottshoemaker Posted October 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2017 Went with black glazed metallic silver for the trim and chest plate, as well as started with the joint seals and general cleanup. 4 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottshoemaker Posted October 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2017 Meanwhile, these came in the mail. much cheaper to convert the libby from spare Primaris than buy the new one. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
InfestedKerrigan Posted October 6, 2017 Report Share Posted October 6, 2017 On 10/5/2017 at 7:28 AM, scottshoemaker said: Went with black glazed metallic silver for the trim and chest plate, as well as started with the joint seals and general cleanup. Is it just silver plus glaze? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottshoemaker Posted October 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2017 1 hour ago, InfestedKerrigan said: Is it just silver plus glaze? That's all. I use the Vallejo Black glaze thinned with Flow-Aid so it's no longer pasty. It knocks the obnoxious brightness off without obscuring the fact it's metal. It's my favorite way to cheat dark metal. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
InfestedKerrigan Posted October 7, 2017 Report Share Posted October 7, 2017 Do you drybrush or line highlight after? Or call it good as is? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottshoemaker Posted October 7, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2017 I'll highlight if I want it brighter but these don't need it 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottshoemaker Posted October 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2017 So I figured since I wasn't using the Ancient, I'd base the Libby conversion on him. I cut the cape off the Gravis Captain and secured it to the Ancient: I cleaned up his left hand and added a pointing one I managed to find in the Ordo bits collection. I then removed theright Bolt Rifle hand and added the GK Force sword I ordered, along with the pauldron so I could add the GK one,, along with a little scroll tube I found as well. With the amount of clipping I did on the arm I was able reposition it a little to accommodate the sword hilt. I'll need to do quite a bit of putty work on the back, but that shouldn't be too big a deal. The backpack will cover some. I left the body in two halves so I actually paint the thing. I'll prolly keep the cape dark, either grey or black to avoid clashing with the armor. Plus it will easier to cover after airbrushing if I go dark. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frowbakk Posted October 9, 2017 Report Share Posted October 9, 2017 Are you going to do the ol' cut-down-Shoulderpad-as-Psychic-Hood trick? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottshoemaker Posted October 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2017 Naw, got a head with a softcap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy Posted October 9, 2017 Report Share Posted October 9, 2017 2 hours ago, scottshoemaker said: Naw, got a head with a softcap Softcap? Looking good, btw! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottshoemaker Posted October 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2017 51 minutes ago, andy said: Softcap? Looking good, btw! Like this 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
InfestedKerrigan Posted October 9, 2017 Report Share Posted October 9, 2017 52 minutes ago, andy said: Softcap? Looking good, btw! There are a couple Libby heads scultped with an inbuilt Hood. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy Posted October 10, 2017 Report Share Posted October 10, 2017 Ahh, ok. Makes sense. I had visions of hideous fontanelle implants. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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