H: Construction Skillz W: $, trade

[InfestedKerrigan]

I am a Licensed and Bonded Oregon Contractor specializing in energy conservation.  What does that mean?  I do Heating, Cooling, Insulation, Home Weatherization, Pest Abatement, and best of all, I'm a Trade Ally with Energy Trust of Oregon, meaning I can help you get rebates for improving your home.  Small businesses, I can currently do everything but the rebates. 

Get at me, and let's talk!

[Romans832]

I am buying a house in Graham.

I have forced air... what options do I have to install AC?

Can I include it into my Forced air that's already installed?

[InfestedKerrigan]

15 minutes ago, Romans832 said:

I am buying a house in Graham.

I have forced air... what options do I have to install AC?

Can I include it into my Forced air that's already installed?

Assuming that the duct work is in good condition, you absolutely can tie it in. The problem you run into is equipment compatibility. Most sales peep, regardless of compatibility will tell you that it is not. That is to say, that you need to get a new Furnace/Air Handler as well. Circumstantially, this is true. It gets truer the older the equipment is, especially with changing to R410A fifteen years ago.

The hot thing people are pushing, though, are the Mini Split Heat Pumps. High Efficiency, wall mounted heads.  They are awesome. We don't build efficiently, however, and these are not always the best option, no matter how hard and hot he's pushing it.  They are extremely easy to install (for people accustomed to running gas piping, and refrigerant lines), so they get pushed that much more with little regard to customers actual need.

[Guest]

56 minutes ago, InfestedKerrigan said:

I am a Licensed and Bonded Oregon Contractor specializing in energy conservation.  What does that mean?  I do Heating, Cooling, Insulation, Home Weatherization, and best of all, I'm a Trade Ally with Energy Trust of Oregon, meaning I can help you get rebates for improving your home.  Small businesses, I can currently do everything but the rebates. 

Get at me, and let's talk!

Probably not an option, but what's the smallest AC option you can make? Been kicking around the idea of boots with AC for a while now, wondering how feasible it would.

[InfestedKerrigan]

3 minutes ago, paxmiles said:

Probably not an option, but what's the smallest AC option you can make? Been kicking around the idea of boots with AC for a while now, wondering how feasible it would.

I refer you to space suits to see what you need externally to be able to have temperature regulated shoes.

 

No, it's not feasible at this point in our evolution. 

[andy]

2 hours ago, InfestedKerrigan said:

The hot thing people are pushing, though, are the Mini Split Heat Pumps. High Efficiency, wall mounted heads.  They are awesome.

I've been thinking of going this way. Currently have radiant electric heat and window AC units, mini split heat pump would be a vast improvement. You don't work in WA?

[InfestedKerrigan]

I am not licensed by the State of Washington to Contract there, no.  I'd have to do some research to see what they say about one off jobs. Most states have a dollar amount that they consider the hard line. 

[andy]

That's cool, this year is work on the yard anyways. I think next year will be AC... particularly if we keep up with these weeks of 95+

[Guest]

37 minutes ago, InfestedKerrigan said:

I am not licensed by the State of Washington to Contract there, no.  I'd have to do some research to see what they say about one off jobs. Most states have a dollar amount that they consider the hard line. 

Could you get around that by working for models? If there's no cash changing hands...

[InfestedKerrigan]

Speaking of ACs and Mini Splits.  I can usually get "last years model" (read: discontinued) or "scratch and dents" (read: someone can't drive a forklift) for $500 to $1000 off. 

Pros: makes it more affordable!

Cons: may not qualify for rebates(seer rating, etc); paint is scratched

If the equipment were catastrophically damaged, they wouldn't be available for sale. They'd be dumped in the garbage and ransacked by the service guys looking for tiny components. It amazes me, the things I've seen distributors toss to the curb.

[InfestedKerrigan]

18 minutes ago, paxmiles said:

Could you get around that by working for models? If there's no cash changing hands...

What Andy is asking about is a 3500-12000 job. And I'm damn sure he doesn't have models for trade, that I would want to carry the equipment cost on to get. And before you ask, neither does pretre. 

As for the premise of what you are asking, are there workarounds? Sure. I could do the work, and not report income just as easily, and as legally as the trade you suggest.  In the trades, when you are working for a company, and do a side job, that tends to be how it goes.

The licensing has to do with liability should something happen. It protects both parties.

 

[Romans832]

3 hours ago, InfestedKerrigan said:

Assuming that the duct work is in good condition, you absolutely can tie it in. The problem you run into is equipment compatibility. Most sales peep, regardless of compatibility will tell you that it is not. That is to say, that you need to get a new Furnace/Air Handler as well. Circumstantially, this is true. It gets truer the older the equipment is, especially with changing to R410A fifteen years ago.

The hot thing people are pushing, though, are the Mini Split Heat Pumps. High Efficiency, wall mounted heads.  They are awesome. We don't build efficiently, however, and these are not always the best option, no matter how hard and hot he's pushing it.  They are extremely easy to install (for people accustomed to running gas piping, and refrigerant lines), so they get pushed that much more with little regard to customers actual need.

2005 house, forced gas air...

We're hoping to use the Puyallup fair as a way to get some free inspections/reviews and find out what our options are.

[InfestedKerrigan]

For further consideration, pax:

10 supply Forced Air system with 1 return, no equipment is about 4k

A single Gas Furnace or Air Conditioner or Heat Pump, 3-4k

Single Head Mini Split System, 4k, adding 2500+ per additional head

Sub-insulation on an average home, 3k

That's also all retro fit. New Construction tends to pay 15-25% less due to the ease of installation.

These numbers are industry standards/averages. Actual pricing may vary, based on things like Friends/Family discount, company overhead, pricing strategies, etc.

[InfestedKerrigan]

6 minutes ago, Romans832 said:

2005 house, forced gas air...

We're hoping to use the Puyallup fair as a way to get some free inspections/reviews and find out what our options are.

Do you have any pics? Is it overhead, or in a Mechanical Room/Garage?

[Romans832]

1 minute ago, InfestedKerrigan said:

Do you have any pics? Is it overhead, or in a Mechanical Room/Garage?

In the garage... let me find the report...

Bradford White DG6322957 Style 1

July '07

PST your e-mail addy and I'll send you the report and you can look at all the photos

" WATER HEATER AGE
The industry standard life expectancy for the average water heater is 8-12 years.  Any water heater 10 years or older is considered well into it's life cycle. Remaining life expectancy cannot be predicted.   I recommend monitoring by performing periodic inspections.  According to the ID tag-serial # this water heater is 12 years old. 

BRADFORD WHITE DATE CODE
For more information click HERE.

"

[InfestedKerrigan]

Pax: "but InfestedKerrigan, why do you have 'trade' in your wants if people don't have models, or presumably collections, valuing that high?"

 

It let's people know that I'm willing to barter. Don't have 4500, but you do have 2500 and a 1992 CBR that hasn't been laid down but you don't use anymore? 

I jet ski, snowmobile, streetbike, off road, farm, am a Mechanical contractor..... there is a plethora of things people may offer up, and worse I can tell em is "sorry, no can do." 

[InfestedKerrigan]

Awesome, I'll check out the pics in the morning, @Romans832, and let you know if I see anything that is either "dude, make sure this gets done," or "nah, dude, someone will try to sell you on this, but you good." His pictures should give me attic, crawl, equipment, and foundation pics.

[Romans832]

6 minutes ago, InfestedKerrigan said:

Awesome, I'll check out the pics in the morning, @Romans832, and let you know if I see anything that is either "dude, make sure this gets done," or "nah, dude, someone will try to sell you on this, but you good." His pictures should give me attic, crawl, equipment, and foundation pics.

Thank you so very much, I really appreciate it!

[InfestedKerrigan]

42 minutes ago, Romans832 said:

Thank you so very much, I really appreciate it!

 

Critical:

-Dryer Vent, replace with proper flapper, pictured is fire hazard haaaaard

-CO detectors, one upstairs and one downstairs, and like he said, not in a room wit a door unless you have multiple on that floor. Carbon Monoxide is a heavy gas, so use floor (shin to knee height) outlets, not ones at counter heights. 

Make sure to do:

-Exclusion Work, keep pests out of crawl and garage. Corpse and other activity suggests that it's been awhile since anything under there, could have been left over from New.  Condition of ducting and sub insulation suggest good crawl health.  Downed insulation didn't appear to be rodent caused from pic.

- Roof moss, bleach water works I hear, you can also buy the treatment and put in a spraybottle

Wouldn't hurt to do, but isn't hurting anything

-Fart Fan Flappers that had cracking

 

 

 

Furnace hasn't been serviced since new. Looks like bunch of sheetrock dust in there, with saw dust and normal build up from products of combustion. Should be serviced every 1 to 2 years. 

Furnace has lower odds of being reusable with ac. May be able to find a matching coil, but likely need a new unit. Expect lots of complaining about getting that one out and new stuff slipped in. 

Water heater is fine. It'll go out, or start under performing when it gets tired. 

Attic wouldn't hurt having 4 to 8 inches of blow added.

Didn't look like enough room on side yards for the AC outdoor unit. Should be, though.

[Guest]

1 hour ago, InfestedKerrigan said:

Pax: "but InfestedKerrigan, why do you have 'trade' in your wants if people don't have models, or presumably collections, valuing that high?"

 

It let's people know that I'm willing to barter. Don't have 4500, but you do have 2500 and a 1992 CBR that hasn't been laid down but you don't use anymore? 

I jet ski, snowmobile, streetbike, off road, farm, am a Mechanical contractor..... there is a plethora of things people may offer up, and worse I can tell em is "sorry, no can do." 

hmm...oh, was just thinking aloud. I did understand listing "trade" to refer to things of similiar value. The models example was a joke, but the question about trades was real and you did answer it. 

[WestRider]

37 minutes ago, InfestedKerrigan said:

- Roof moss, bleach water works I hear, you can also buy the treatment and put in a spraybottle

Baking soda also works. Can be sprinkled on the moss dry, or dissolved in water and sprayed/slopped on. Regardless of which chemical or application method, note that it will kill the moss, but not actually remove it, and it'll still be up there soaking up moisture and setting up leaks. But once you've used the baking soda or whatever and let it work for a while (think days, not hours), it's pretty easy to clear it off with a broom or something.

[Romans832]

Thanks guys!!

 

[Romans832]

20 hours ago, InfestedKerrigan said:

Furnace hasn't been serviced since new. Looks like bunch of sheetrock dust in there, with saw dust and normal build up from products of combustion. Should be serviced every 1 to 2 years.  

Furnace has lower odds of being reusable with ac. May be able to find a matching coil, but likely need a new unit. Expect lots of complaining about getting that one out and new stuff slipped in. 

Furnace has been serviced by a licensed team now. (It was our one real mandate and she accepted)
She also replaced all the smoke detectors.
We know we have to move the CO detector out into the hall instead of bedroom.

Well poop, had hoped for better news, but I wondered as much. Thank you very much sir!
What is a healthy expectation to pay for replacing it with a "central air" unit instead of just heat?

[InfestedKerrigan]

On 8/7/2018 at 9:09 PM, Romans832 said:

Furnace has been serviced by a licensed team now. (It was our one real mandate and she accepted)
She also replaced all the smoke detectors.
We know we have to move the CO detector out into the hall instead of bedroom.

Well poop, had hoped for better news, but I wondered as much. Thank you very much sir!
What is a healthy expectation to pay for replacing it with a "central air" unit instead of just heat?

On the low end for complete equipment change out, 3k-4.5k. If they are at 3k, they may be losing money on the job in the long run. I charge around 4k for a basic 3ton AC/Coil/Furnace change out. Mid range 5k or adding some bells, high or lots of bells and whistles 7+. Easy to spend 10k, though, through a large company, who also has a lot higher of an overhead to meet.

[Romans832]

7 hours ago, InfestedKerrigan said:

On the low end for complete equipment change out, 3k-4.5k. If they are at 3k, they may be losing money on the job in the long run. I charge around 4k for a basic 3ton AC/Coil/Furnace change out. Mid range 5k or adding some bells, high or lots of bells and whistles 7+. Easy to spend 10k, though, through a large company, who also has a lot higher of an overhead to meet.

Thank you!
First quote has us at $12K for a 95% efficient 2 stage furnace & AC unit

Or like $6Kish for just a new 95% efficient 2 stage furnace... It literally was a $200~300 difference for solo vs both at once 😕