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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/10/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Location: 717 SE Main St. Portland OR 97214 (map) - Around the corner from Kokiyo Teriyaki and up the stairs Doors Open at 3 pm Cost: $5 for Ordo Members, $2 for Ordo Warlord Champions, FREE for Emperors! And as always, your first Game Night is FREE! Games we play: All games are welcome. Currently we are running an Infinity League . Their is also often 40K, Kill Team and War Cry games. Although it is possible to find a pickup game at Game Night, it is much better to prearrange a game by posting in this thread before coming down. New players are always welcome, feel free to stop in and check it out ******* I’m planning on a throwback game night, cracking out some Gorkamorka with Scott. Can’t believe it’s really happening?! Come by and check it out!
  2. 2 points

    Rate the Last Movie You Saw

    It is definitely better if you have studied Shakespeare.
  3. 1 point

    Adventures in Contrast Paint

    Step 1 - Da Kunnin' Plan Like the rest of the hobby world, I was curious how the new Citadel Contrast Paints worked compared to traditional hobby paints. Along with the usual hobby disease of buying whatever is shiny and new, I figured there were a few other hobby symptoms I could bundle together and treat all once with a bit of planning. Here's what I wanted to achieve: Try shiny new paints released with a whole lotta marketing and fanfare As Contrast Paints are designed to speed up painting to tabletop quality, clear out some minis from the backlog on my shelves End up with something useful, aka, a Blood Bowl team, skirmish warband, or similar Try out one of the shiny new games GW has been releasing at breakneck speed With those criteria, here's how I chose to fulfill each of them: Contrast Paints, duh I dug through several bags of old Squigs and Squig Herders. Fun models that I happened to have bunches of for some great idea I've since forgotten. I scrounged up 11 Squigs, 3 Squig Hoppers, and 4 Squig Herders. Seemed like enough to make a warband (or an anachronistic Necromunda gang). I noticed the brand new Warcry game had a supplemental release of warband cards for Squigs - Perfect! Step 2 - Prep and Primer With the plan defined, I was ready to get started. The next step was cleaning and prepping the models, including priming. Since I was experimenting with Contrast for the first time, I decided to experiment with primer colors as well so I could compare the effects. Here's a photo of the warband and primers. The group on the right side is my test batch. I planned to run them through first to test the primer colors in combination with different Contrast colours. You can see I sprayed them: white, Wraithbone (an official Contrast primer), Wraithbone zenithal (black first, then Wraithbone from the top only), Mechanicus Standard Grey (a GW colour), and finally a lone Herder sprayed white so I can test out a goblin. The group on the left is the meat of the warband, with a few more Squigs, including a giant one, the three Hoppers, and three more Herders. The Mechanicus Standard Grey is obviously darker than the other primers, and according to recommendations about Contrast, a bad idea. Still, I wanted to see what the effect would be as I often use that as primer for my normal painting projects. Step 3 - First Contact with Contrast Treating the project as pseudo-science (like most of what's on the Internet), I took notes about the colours, brushes, and times it took to paint for the first test group. I'll list those here, and post photos below. Squigs Basing - 20 minutes - GW Shade Brush - Dark Angel Green on four models, Ork Flesh on four models, Militarum Green on the Herder Skin - Gryph-Hound Orange - 18 minutes - GW Shade Brush - 2 models - lots of details I was careful to paint around! Skin - Blood Angels Red - 16 minutes - GW Shade Brush - 2 models - less details on the newer edition Squigs Skin - Talassar Blue - 10 minutes - GW Shade Brush - 2 models - really got the hang of application now Tongues and gums - Volupus Pink - 5 minutes - Size 1 brush Lower lips and tails - Magus Purple - 1 minute - Size 1 brush Teeth and claws - Skeleton Horde - 5 minutes - Size 1 brush Eyes - Wraithbone - 1 minute - Size 00 brush - cleanup step to ensure eyes are clear of other spills Eyes - Iyanden Yellow - 1 minute - Size 00 brush - applied Contrast colour Teeth and claws shading - Aggaros Dunes - 2 minutes - Size 0 brush - applied around the base of the teeth and claws to add a gradient tint Fine details - various - 6 minutes - Size 00 brush - Squigs feature a lot of warts as a trait and I wanted to highlight them a bit more than the Contrast did Totals: 8 models, 85 minutes Night Goblin Herder Skin - Warp Lightning Green - 4 minutes Belt and cymbal ties - Snakebite Leather - 2 minutes Nose bandages - Basilicum Grey - 1 minute - was too dark so I highlighted with white Teeth - Skeleton Horde - 5 minutes - Size 1 brush Tunic and shoes - Black Templar - 6 minutes - the bulk of the model, went very easily! Cymbals - Brass and Silver - 5 minutes - metals aren't available in Contrast and they also take so much time to get a decent coat! Totals: 1 model, 23 minutes The Results: As you can see above, using Contrast over the dark Mechanicus Standard Grey was a total fail. All of the colors were washed out and dull compared to the other Squigs. In the interest of science, I wanted to see if I could salvage these models with something equally simple and fast. I put in another 20 minutes of drybrushing to fix them up, and I think the results turned out great, although the photo doesn't do them justice so you'll have to take my word for it. One last note on the experimental phase: the zenithal primering didn't have an appreciable effect. Probably due more to the Squig models being very short, so their undersides where the black primer remained is not terribly noticeable. During this same time I tried the technique on an AdMech Dominus and it worked nicely as an additional gradient to his robes. Step 4 - The Real Deal - (1 week later) Next up was applying all my test experience to the heart of the warband. There were 9 more models left to paint, including a Boss. The Boss model was Skarsnik (circa 4th edition WFB) featuring quite a bit more detail than the other models. I also replaced the dark Mechanicus Standard Grey primer with the official Contrast Grey Seer on three of the models. Since I already described the breakdown of steps by colours above, I'll get straight to the results. 3 Squigs 3 Squig Hoppers 2 Squig Herders 1 Boss Total time: 242 minutes (4 hours and 2 minutes). I estimate about 30 minutes was extra time put into the details on the Skarsnik model. For those keeping score at home, that brings the totals for the warband to: 18 models 350 minutes (call it 6 hours with bookkeeping fudge factor) Pretty good compared to "classic" painting! Of course, all of these models are tabletop quality. Maybe slightly above since there are some areas/colours where Contrast really shines, like the skin on all of the models. Since that element often takes the most time in classic painting, that in itself is a huge win. It's also worth noting that there are no metallics in the Contrast line, so all of those areas I had to do classic style. In this case, that meant a couple of layers of metal and a wash with Citadel shades. Nothing fancy. Here is the entire warband ready for action. The lighting on my desk is not doing any favors for these photos, so I'll endeavor to get some better action shots in Step 5 when I get them on the battlefield. They really do look pretty good in person, especially for the time put in. If there's one lesson learned in this adventure that is not apparent from the photos, it's the psychological factor that Contrast has on painting. Wargamers often have a love/hate relationship with painting their models. For me, it's always been love, but despite that there are dark moments of grappling with the sheer prospect of how much time and effort a model, team, warband, or army, will take to paint. During the gap after painting the first half of this warband, I found myself genuinely excited about painting the second half for one simple reason: IT WAS SO DAMN FAST. I am quite certain that practice with the Contrast line, both in refining application techniques and simply learning the colour range better, can produce amazing results with ridiculously little effort. I don't think they'll ever replace what is needed to produce truly stunning models that win competitions, but they sure make it a viable prospect to field painted gangs/teams/whatever for the ever-increasing number of GW skirmish games that keep coming out. Step 5 - To Battle! I finally got these adorable little monsters onto the tabletop for my very first game of Warcry and all I can say is, what a blast! Warcry is a very fast and very brutal game that is easy to learn and very fun to play. I played against @scottshoemaker and it was the first game for both of us. We managed to setup, skim the rules, and get through the first turn in about 30 minutes. The next two turns were only a few minutes each as we got a feel for it. We had been told, and quickly learned, that a Warcry game is generally over by Turn 3. We could have stopped then, but we kept the carnage going for another 3 turns until one side had been completely wiped out. Note that we didn't even bother with a Scenario (and thus Objectives) or a Twist. Those are sure to inject even more mayhem and fun into an already thrilling game. (in case you can't tell, I'm looking forward to playing more Warcry and encourage you to try it out!) The Team Photo - the whole collection I painted up, posing in the ruins of a wizard's tower, who they surely ate, along with the tower. The warband for the game. Turns out Squigs (and Hoppers) are awesome so they cost a lot of points. That meant I could only take a few of them out to dinner for the first game. My selection was a Loon Boss (Skarsnik), 2 Hoppers, 2 Squigs, and 3 Herders. Turn 1 - Warcry plays very (very, very) fast! We got stuck in right away with Scott's Iron Golems equally fired up to throw blows. Note we were using the wrong counters for Activated and Waiting (we didn't even know what Waiting was). Any attack roll of a 6 is a Critical hit and generally does double damage. My Squigs were feeling the thrill of their first battle and rolled A LOT of Crits. (sorry not sorry, Scott) Hoppers have a move of 10(!) and the Loonie warband has an ability to give bonus moves, resulting in 20" flying leaps! --AND--- the Hoppers can land beside (aka, on) an enemy model and squish them while they're at it. The Iron Golem Ogre charged into the center melee, but even his 30 Wounds couldn't hold up to the slavering jaws of hungry Squigs rolling Criticals like it was Christmas. NOM NOM NOM! After Turn 3, it was a meat grinder as the Iron Golems staged an effective comeback and took out the wounded Hoppers. By Turn 6 there was only a single Squig and its hapless Herders against the ultra-powerful leader of the Golems. But the dice came through one last time, and the Squig opened its huge mouth extra-wide, swallowing the leader, his crunchy armour, and his fancy hammer of death. YUM! Step 6 - Final Thoughts Because there ended up being a couple weeks between finishing painting the warband and fielding them on the table, it gave me a chance to set them aside and "forget" how they looked, letting the afterglow of completing the painting project fade. Therefore, it was very pleasing to unpack them and realize just how good they looked on the table alongside all the painted terrain and Scott's awesome Iron Golems (he also used Contrast and metals). The bright, vivid colors lit up the table, and, as all hobbyists know, playing with painted minis is not only good luck, but makes any GW game 100% more satisfying. If I had any lingering doubts about using Contrast paints, they were firmly erased by playing a game with fully painted minis. My Arbitrary Ratings: Contrast Paints - 6 out of 6 Squigs - fast, effective, and great results Warcry - 4 out of 4 Bludgeons - simple, quick rules, and the thrill of tense combat in about 45 minutes Squigs - 37 out of 37 Fangs - so many teef, so much chomping!
  4. 1 point
    Location: 717 SE Main St. Portland OR 97214 (map) - Around the corner from Kokiyo Teriyaki and up the stairs. Cost to play games is $5 for Ordo Members, $2 for Ordo Warlord Champions, FREE for Emperors! And as always, your first Game Night is FREE! Last week on Tuesday Ordo Game Night: The ususal suspects were all there plus another strong showing of Matchbox Mad Max, aka Gaslands and Quacks of Quedlinburg rounded things out. Warhammer 40k - Whether you swing the sword of the Emperor or you're hanging with Papa in the Garden of Nurgle, we've got the tables, mats, and boat loads of custom painted terrain for you to wage your war! Blood Bowl - Like Death itself, you cannot escape it's grasp. There has been Necromunda talk this week. You never know when an underhive might pop up on a table. Games we play: All, with a focus on 40K, board games, Blood Bowl, Necromunda and more. There is sometimes talk of playing Barenpark. Although it is possible to find a pickup game at Game Night, it is much better to prearrange a game before coming down. New players are always welcome, feel free to stop by and check it out. Come to where the flavor is. Come to Ordo country.
  5. 1 point

    Imaginary Space Dinosaurs

    There's a simple little online tool from GW themselves -- Warscroll Builder -- that can make list building a lot easier.
  6. 1 point

    Imaginary Space Dinosaurs

    Strictly speaking, Age of Sigmar defaults to "Open Play" with no formal force organization chart at all. If you own it, you can plop it down on the table. This is fine for totally new players who just want to start playing with whatever toy soldiers they got in their first box or casual friends that just want to muck about with a friendly game, but gets a little nuts when That Guy decides this means he can field 72 Nagash models as an army. However, since you're an Ordo Fanaticus member, I think its safe to assume you're not a complete newbie at wargaming. So, you're going to want to do things a little bit more advanced than just the entry level. You're going to want the "Matched Play rules," a.k.a. the tournament mode, a.a.k.a. the points system. For that you'll need to buy the most recent iteration of The General's Handbook in addition to your Battle Tome. In a nutshell, Matched Play assigns every unit in the army a point value and a battlefield role. The roles are Leader (roughly equivalent to WH40's HQ and Elite slot), Battleline (Troops), Behemoths (big stompy monsters), and Artillery (the big guns). In a standard 2,000 Points game, you'll need at least one Leader (maximum six), at least three Battleline choices (no limit), and can have 0-4 Behemoths and 0-4 Artillery. It should also be noted that unlike WH40k, it is possible for a unit to belong to two roles simultaneously, for example, the Saurus Oldblood on Carnosaur is both a Leader and a Behemoth. He would therefore count as one of your Leader slots and one of your Behemoth slots. The Bastiladon, Carnosaur, Dread Saurian, Engine of the Gods, Stegadon, and Troglodon are all Behemoths. Those are the biggest, stompiest dinosaurs in the army. I'm afraid there aren't any big, stompy dinosaurs that count as Battleline. Saurus Knights, however count as Battleline and they're dino-men riding velociraptors. So that's nice.
  7. 1 point

    Random Thought Thread

    I’m pretty sure it’s crocodiles that are Catholic; Allahgators are Muslims. ... I’ll see myself out.
  8. 1 point
    Ill be there for some Shadowrun, and, if i get there early, maybe a quick gaslands game
  9. 1 point
  10. 1 point
    I should be there around 4 to open up, if no one beats me to it. I’ll be aiming for some Gaslands games, and maybe a blood bowl game if @kb10r gets his game with Burk in first. im always down for necromunda, killteam or warcry, so give me a shout if you want a game or demo of any of those.
  11. 1 point

    Random Thought Thread

    Alligators are my new jesus fish, although there is something truly appealing about jesus beaver.
  12. 1 point

    Random Thought Thread

    Whaaa—!? They ain’t kosher. I can tell you that much.
  13. 1 point

    Random Thought Thread

    Mind blown.
  14. 1 point
  15. 1 point

    Rampage: Discussion!

    No-Go for me. Its Drill weekend as usual! Ill stop by and watch afterwards though.
  16. 1 point
    Sgt. Rock

    Crown Royal Dice Bag

    Never had a Crown Royal bag. Had several other bag types, and a couple dice chests. Used to store my Shadowrun d6s in a little tin I got... I think it was a pocket watch that came in it or something like that. Currently the 40k dice live in a bag made by @Raindog's wife, and the rest in a little pirate chest.
  17. 1 point

    Crown Royal Dice Bag

    I do not currently but you have no historical answers available. I have found that canvas is far more durable.
  18. 1 point

    Tempting Kickstarters

    I need this for gaming stuff I’m sure, or just because I love modular systems
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