Dark Trainer

Looks like this opens around 530? I was planning to drop something off at the club and make a trade.

I'm interested. Sent a message.

Updated with some prices just for an idea. I am flexible.

I sold the other Marine items. Just the Armigers remain. 3x - Armiger Warglaives, new on sprue (from the Forgebane starter box) They sell on eBay for $40 a piece, but would do $90 for all three to a club member. Shoot me an offer.

There going to be a 'remote' link? I can't make it in person today.

@Blustorm, works destroyed me today. I rarely cop out last minute, but i'm stuck with additional work items tonight. I am sorry, really wanted to Kill team!

There are better prices that come and go. I've seen this for as low as $99 on amazon, if you're patient (not sure it'll go that low again, but black friday coming up, even the direct vendor has sales.

I never bought this, but this was HIGHLY recommended as a good 'base' air brush. Good quality, etc. The Patriot 105-7 https://usaairbrushsupply.com/products/105-7-patriot-airbrush-set

I'm game if you are. However, feel free to play another system or get earlier game in. I doubt I'd be there before 5pm (that's proving to be a challenge). Just let me know, i am flexible enough 😁

You mentioned where paint touches, if they're rubbing together I would think paint could rub off. However, I use different primer myself. The Duplicolor sandable primer has always been my personal preference (white or grey). Second, as mentioned some plastics get a bonus if you rinse them and I use an old toothbrush under cold water (however, rarely required for purchased minis). It can vary though, never a bad idea. Also, 3d printed PLA is a different material too. Third, if you overspray and end up with too much paint, this will not bond well. Two light coats are always better than trying to get it on the first spray. Lastly, if you spray too close to the model, the propellant cannot evaporate and you end up with propellant stuck in the model and that does not bond at all. You should be spraying light coats side to side, about 8" from the model surface. Also make sure to shake the paint can for a full minute before starting, and shake 5 seconds for every 15-20 seconds of spray (this is overkill, but important to keep it mixed).

I'm sorry to do this. I need to cancel our game. I'm going to drop off those chairs between close to 5pm and head straight out. I need to help my wife with some things.

You don't have to wait for me, if someone is there earlier with a pickup game, go for it. However, if interested when i get there, I'm down. Toying with the idea of trying to make an Ork KT, but not sure if I have time to learn another faction before GN.

I'll be swinging by probably 430-5pm. But I'll have a Kill Team with me, if anyone wanted to play.

The new tokens have dual function now. They are different, but you basically just need a way to show a model engaged or concealed, and the fact they're now double sided allows you to show activated or not. That said, yes, just the rulebook (whether pdf, or buying) is all you truly need. If buying the book, the starter box ends up being something you could sell off parts of it (like the teams, terrain, etc) and end up ahead of the $50 price tag.

I'm in the same boat. Played two learning games last game night and thoroughly enjoyed it! The 2021 Core rulebook is important, but at that point you're better off probably just buying the 'Starter set'. At $99 (or less) it has everything you would need and MUCH more. Core rulebook, tokens/markers, minis for two factions, scatter terrain, objective pieces, play mat, as well as movement templates (for two players). However, you could make due with just a 'token/marker set' and the core rulebook. Since the book's already $50, the starter set includes is just too good a value. Even if you SELL the factions from it. In my opinion for me, these are my 'required' items: Core rulebook (for initial factions) Tokens/Markers since they are a mechanic of the game Optional, but might be useful only if you need a specific faction not in 'core': Compendium book (however, i hear this book is outdated and not really needed except for those factions in it) Everything after that you probably have. However, Core rulebook and Tokens seems like you get far more than $50 of value with the starter box contents. The compendium book is still separate. Assuming you got the books via 'other' means, and made some tokens, you could start for free.

Hah! Did you install a filament sensor so it will 'pause' when you run out?

@Kampfer, definitely a fun game! Thanks again! @Blustorm, thanks for our game too. Sneaking in two Kill team games is always fun! Now, time to hunt down some books, tokens, etc.

Yeah, my Enter 3 Neo v2 is EXCELLENT. Thanks for the tip.

Awesome! I found this guy too in my searches: https://cults3d.com/en/users/Terrain4Print/3d-models

Anyone have any good recommendations for free STL's for 40k terrain (ruins, etc)? Making a home table set with PLA (nothing fancy). Easier to print the better. Mainly, just not looking to invest in 'STL's' unless you 'really think they're worth it, or cheaper. Other than standard 40k, i'd also love some 'necron' themed stuff. Just so many things i'm finding, and figured some people might have 'favorites'

I'd love to get a game of kill team in, ease myself back into the grind. IF you're willing to deal with a total scrub who doesn't know current rules (I'll try to brush up this week). What kind of 'points team' do we usually play? 😁

I believe @Tao Tsê-Mung was above? Not sure he got a matchup yet.

Haven't played 40k in 4 years now. Really looking at 10th, just been too busy lately. I'll get one in soon. My crons need to shake off the dust protocols again 😂

Just a reminder to get your hotel room nights booked up! They're limited and starting to move, and the event rate is a GOOD price!

New rules are, just buy as many models as you can and put them on the table. Roll a d6, and add +$$$ to the roll. The deepest wallet wins. Really makes for nice short games to get beers sooner 😜