Duckman

It is the set at http://www.games-workshop.com/en-US/Chaos-Marauder-Horsemen. I just can't remember if those came out with 7th or earlier. (The item listed above is NiB but they match all my Marauders so I can post an assembled model that link is not sufficient.)

Thanks for the heads up, Flava. That should be fixed now.

Liquidating everything. This is the first round, complete kits and bits and bits and bits plus some odds and ends and books and stuff. For the NiBox/Blister stuff I am looking for half of current retail price. For the bits and partial sprues contact me and we can work something out. Happy to deliver/meet in the greater Seattle area. Will be in Vancouver, WA in about 6 weeks (Gamestorm) if people down there want to meet me and avoid shipping. For the rest of the world, purchaser covers packaging and shipping from Seattle (UPS, USPS or FedEx as you choose, please indicate if you want insurance). Armies (assembled figs) will be coming separately but they *are* also coming once I can get a solid list of everything put together. If you know what I have and are interested (mostly that's probably Kremmet or Flava) feel free to hit me up before they get posted. For everyone else, feel free to ask and I can send pictures... I have Skaven (7th ed era army), Warriors of Chaos (7th and 8th ed era) and Lizardmen (7th ed era). I *will* get this stuff posted eventually but not this weekend. The Rest -- General: Space Hulk (3rd Edition) NiB (opened but not punched or clipped) - looking for $100 for this 30mm Round Bases (Warmachine) NiBlister GF9 Plasticard 1/4" square rare earth magnets (for magnetizing bases) Warmachine Prime:Remix rulebook Warmachine Legends rulebook Warhammer 8th Ed. Hardback Rulebook Warhammer 8th Ed. Paperback (IoB version) Rulebook Warhammer 7th Ed. Hardback Rulebook Warhammer 7th Ed. Paperback (starter version) Rulebook Warhammer 40k 5th Ed.? Paperback (starter version) Rulebook Warhammer 7th Ed. Warriors of Chaos Warhammer 8th Ed. Warriors of Chaos - Sold Warhammer 7th Ed. Skaven Warhammer 6th Ed. Lizardmen Warhammer 7th Ed. Lizardmen 8th Ed. Battle Magic Cards - Sold 8th Ed. Warriors of Chaos Battle Magic Cards - Sold Mordheim PDF printer black-and-white and spiral bound More loose sprues and bits than you can shake a stick at... (Ask if there is something you want.) Bits from Lizardmen (6th and 7th) Bits from Warriors of Chaos (6th to 8th) Bits from Skaven (7th Ed. army including bits from older kits) 2-3 sets of Skaven from Island of Blood (Ask for specific units/pieces, believe the ROs are all gone already for example) Dark Eldar Kabalite Warriors and Wyches (Bloodbowl conversion leftovers) Ork Gretchin (Bloodbowl conversion leftovers) Lizardmen: 7th Ed. Temple Guard NiB 7th Ed. Stormvermin NiB Plastic (6th Ed.?) Plague Monk Regiment NiB Warriors of Chaos: Finecast Festus Leechlord NiBlister - Sold Plastic Chaos Sorceror Lord NiBlister Citadel Chosen Command (believe that these are plastic, not finecast) NiB 8th Ed. Chimera NiBag (Mailorder packaging) - Sold 8th Ed. Finecast Chaos Dwarf Hellcannon NiB - Sold Plastic (7th Ed.?) Chaos Marauder Horsemen NiB 7th Ed. (Plastic) Chaos Knights NiB 8th Ed. (Plastic) Chaos Chariot NiB - Sold Skaven: 7th Ed. Clanrat Regiment NiB 7th Ed. Hellpit Abomination NiB - Sold Metal Warpfire Thrower NiBlister Space Marines: (intended for BB conversion so this is it) Tactical Squad NiB

Crew is trained on a specific vehicle. They just suffer less if moved to another vehicle of the same weight. Tier of the vehicle does not enter into the equation. Moving from a tier II light to another tier II light is the same as moving to a tier III or tier IV light. If I recall, moving from one vehicle to another of the same class is a 20% penalty... A light to another light, a TD to another TD... You can spend silver to mitigate half of that or gold to mitigate all of that but the retraining is permanent meaning you would have to retrain again to go back to the prior vehicle. Similarly, moving to a different class of vehicle should be a 40% penalty (but may still be useful when you get the opportunity to move into your first heavy tanks, for example). Doesn't matter how different as I recall... Light to medium is the same as light to arty or medium to TD. That's where "premium" tanks (not elites, but the ones you bought with gold or real cash) really stand out as different. If you go out and buy a Jagdtiger 88, which is a premium tank, you can put any german TD crew in it without retraining them and without taking any penalty. As Burk and Razz (I think it was them anyway) mentioned, it's *really* expensive to drive a T9 or T10 tank. The price of the ammo and the repairs is prohibitive. The way you get a good crew for your Jagdpanzer E 100 or your Waffentraeger auf E 100 is to buy the tank and then move the crew to your Jagdtiger 88 and drive that until the crew is rockin' so you can put them back into the T10 TD and actually have a good crew to drive it with.

I dare you to do a google search for this meme and see just exactly how illiterate Seahawks fans (well the ones who want to rub the Packers' noses in it) really are. That's the best one I could find.

Finally found a version that I can post (that does not have typos and stuff to boot)

Shame on me... I just noticed that the comic I posted above came in two pieces. I went back and added the second half. Make sure you go and read it if you missed it the first time.

Rather than juggle components which can be extremely frustrating... if you pull up the research tree and mouse over the tank you should get a pop-up (or maybe I am misremembering and you need to click on the tank in the research tree?) which has the information about the current tank including its weight. All their weights are in metric tons (1000 kg) and the components are in metric tons or in kilos. You can look at the weight of the current tank, mouse over the suspension to see what the maximum weight is and then look at the weight difference of the components you want to add. It'll keep you from spending money on something that you cannot equip. Also, although it is a slower process, I suggest sticking with a single tank and playing it a lot (an evening, a few evenings). You have to wait for a battle to finish but even in one three hour session you should see improvement in your performance in that tank as you get the timing and other characteristics (like camo profile) down. You'll know better how to hide in it, how to shoot with it and how to drive it if you get into a tight battle (a brawl).

So the issue with the skill tree is not so much about the required upgrades and more about some of the things that you are not seeing... Your suspension determines the maximum weight of your tank but it does not know what contributes to the weight of your tank. If you add a camo net or rammer to your tank it contributes weight that is not accounted for anywhere on the research tree. Maybe you used your extra weight to upgrade the radio, not the gun. Now that you want the gun you don' thave enough weight for it. In the case of things that are truly required I think they are all organized correctly. Some guns cannot be put in the original turret but every time I have seen that the gun upgrade in question is located somewhere beyond the turret upgrade that is required. Both upgrades, however, are placed on the tree independent of the suspension upgrade which may be required to upgrade the turret and gun in the first place. In my opinion, most of the fun stuff is in the 6-8 range but I can certainly understand frustration with portions of it. As I mentioned above, I no longer play because I can't devote the time I would need to play at a level that I would find entertaining.

No, the crew for each vehicle is fixed (and I believe mostly historically accurate). Different vehicles have different crew allocated. For example the Russian KV-5 has a 6-man crew. Commander, Gunner, Driver, Radio Operator, Loader, Loader. The Marder II that you mentioned earlier is Commander (Radio Operator), Driver, Gunner (Loader) for a crew of three, two of which fulfill two roles. Like all games today there is next to no information in the official handbook/rules. You need to go to a dev-maintained website (or sites) to get the complete rules. There's a wiki at http://wiki.wargaming.net/en/Main_Page that covers a lot of the rules in dry, tedious text. It's a wealth of information if you are willing to wade through it but it is overwhelming when getting started. Again, take your Marder II. You can see full details on it at http://wiki.wargaming.net/en/Tank:G20_Marder_II. If you look on the right hand side you can find all sorts of statistics including a section on armaments. At the bottom of that section you can click to change what gun you have on the tank and get updated statistics. After picking the gun you want, go back up to the "Rate of Fire" section and you will note that there is a little triangle to the far right of the entry. Mouse over that and you can see all the things that modify the rate of fire and what those modifications do. This game has a lot of parallels to the old Avalon Hill wargames. You can get into the game with a difficulty of about 3 for the first scenario but playing the full game is difficulty 10 and if you are a novice playing an experienced player you can expect to get your butt handed to you in rather short order. Knowing how to conceal a tank, how to equip it for the way you play (sniping vs. derp guns), which tank lines favor the way you play vs. those that are really designed for something totally different, what enemy tanks do and where they are strong or weak and finally what each map looks like and what player tendencies are on those maps is a massive undertaking but it is also what makes the distinction between carrying your team and being carried. I quit playing back when it was just Russians, Germans and Americans. When I tried to come back with Brits, French and Chinese tanks I quickly came to the conclusion that it was not worth the time and effort I would have to put in to actually get back to the level I was playing at prior (and it didn't help that they took my arty and beat it to death with the nerf bat). YMMV. If you enjoy the PvP aspect of it and are willing to put in the time the system makes a lot of sense and the more you put into it, the more you can get out of it. Whether or not you are willing to get past the initial hump is going to be a personal decision though.

Something that people are leaving out (which is why I recommend looking at the videos) is that every time you shoot the cover values for every plant around you vanishes for a short time (i.e. blowback from the shot flattens all the vegetation which they don't actually display but do model) so you can be hidden just fine but as soon as you shoot you get lit up. The rammer is your best bet for reload time. Training that loader is another important thing but is not something you can do easily (see above)... You would either have to fire the existing loader (loaders on some tanks) and hire a new one using silver (gets you 75%) or gold (gets you 100%). A 100% loader is noticably faster than a 50% loader. Brothers in Arms will also help your load times I believe and there is a Tank Commander skill which causes everyone to perform their job better but I forget the name of it. The problem is that those bonuses are only worth 10% of the crew skill which pales in comparison to the rammer in the first place. The key with the Marder is to snipe from half a map away. I don't think that you can ever make it fast enough to deal with higher tier tanks unless you can stay hidden. This relies on your allies to spot for you, but is much more effective if you have even halfway competent allies and a decent radio. Also remember (again, from the tutorials) you don't want to be in the bush, you want to be behind it (differs from everything you see in war videos and movies)... The way they model you only want to pull up enough that the bush goes transparent, not far enough that your barrel peeks out. And if you can do it (relying on spotting) you don't even want to be that far forward. If you're far enough behind the bush then your shots will not remove the concealment rating of the bush when you shoot and you will not be revealed.

From existentialcomics.com...

Burk didn't read my whole post... Note that Premium tanks do have one other very important benefit that you're leaving out, Burk... Look at the second-to-last paragraph of my post about training crews.

There are a number of factors at play. Each tank has a unique crew assigned to drive it. That crew gains experience as you drive the tank. You, the player, also gain experience which you can devote to unlocking mechanical upgrades for the tank which you can then buy with the in-game currency (which I'll call silver from here on). Once you have unlocked all the upgrades, whether you have applied them to the tank or not, your tank is "elited". At this point you have options. You can use the tank to amass experience which you can then convert to "free experience" (which can be spent on anything, not just the tank you are driving) or you can click a little flag in the research window which says something like "devote all experience to crew training". You can only do this with elite tanks. What that does is double (roughly if not exactly) the rate at which the crew gains experience with the tank. If you take a closer look at the crew for your tank (should be along one side of the tank display when in the garage) by mousing over them or clicking on them you can see that they have a percentage for their main skill (command, drive, gunner, loader, radio). When this hits 100% they begin to gain experience toward new skills... You get to pick those skills and they can be things like Camo (bonus to camo rating when sitting still) or Fire Fighting or other things. Some skills are general (Camo and Fire Fighting) and some are role-specific (Sixth Sense, etc.) so not ever crew member can get every skill. A fully trained crew has 5 skills for each crew member right now if I recall correctly (at least in the PC version). Some things that you can do... When you buy a new tank, you can move your old crew to the new tank... This is done under retraining. When you retrain a crewman he loses some skill. How much depends on how big the move is... A driver from a light tank loses a little if he's move to drive a new type of light tank and a bit more if he is moved to drive a medium tank. You can mitigate this loss by half using silver or you can spend real money and mitigate the loss completely by spending gold. If you don't want to move a crew, you can buy improved crews when you buy your new tank. There are check-boxes on the tank purchase menus that allow you to spend silver or gold for improved crews. The cost of retraining a crew is large when dealing with low-level tanks. Generally you will pay more for retraining than the tank costs (or you are ever going to earn in it) for tanks prior to about tier V. At those levels I just buy a new (raw) crew and suck it up (because a 50% gunner blows chunks, to be honest). There are also "premium" tanks which are different from "elite" tanks. Premium tanks simply get an earnings bonus (in silver) when you play them. They also have one other advantage which is that you can use them to train crews because a premium tank counts as any tank of its own weight class. (So let's take the Russian KV-5, which is a heavy... Any crew from a Russian heavy tank can drive the KV-5 without retraining and without penalties. I can take the crew from my IS-4, put them in my KV-5, get experience for them, earn extra silver and not have to pay the repair-and-reload for my tier-X tank.) I strongly suggest that you look into the training videos on YouTube. Although you may decide you still don't like the mechanic it will definitely explain the mechanic to you which will give you a better chance of using it to your advantage, not just suffering from it.

FNORD! Sorry, had to be done. I know that ClassicFlava is playing with some guys here in Seattle... Maybe they play in Ballard? I forget. It was too far for me to think about making the hike. Flava lives up in the Woodinville area now as I recall and he's tried to get me to come over for Fantasy games once in a while. Kremmet is also playing at least a bit and I think he's usually over in the Redmond area at Games and Gizmos over there. Are you looking specifically for a Warhammer scene and in Fantasy or 40K? I know there's Saga going on in the Kirkland area about once a month but I don't know the gamers all that well. Same shop has a bunch of "historical" stuff including Flames of War on other days/evenings.

Linky no worky. Dunno if this is for yourself or for business. If the former, consider contacting pinkgorillagames.com up here in Seattle. I know they will mail stuff for you as well.

OOOOOOooooooo, hotness.

So combining the two ideas, just to make sure my idea is clear.... Rather than playing BFG against an opponent's fleet, you play BFG against a pre-defined force that is the "static defense" around the planet. The scenario(s) is(are) simple enough that you can alternate with one player bringing his force while the another plays the static defense according to specific rules (to eliminate the variability of facing different opponents). The second day is Epic with players fighting one another, possibly multiple battles with different scenarios, to reach specific destinations... Maybe to get special gear. Maybe to upgrade troops a la gaining experience. You might actually modify conditions based on performance in day one... Delayed deployment, missing units, extra or missing gear, etc. Then the third day is the Kill-team scenario with a list you defined at the beginning of the tournament and upgrades (or penalties) based on your performance in day two. Depending on the feel and the lore you want you can either split into good and not-so-good or you can just say that there's no love lost between any of the factions as they vie for whatever really cool thing lies at the end of the road.

Food for thought. (Just thinking off the cuff...) In equestrian three-day eventing the idea is to demonstrate the fitness and training of the horse first (dressage), then to compete head-to-head on a grueling, unforgiving course (cross country) and then to again demonstrate his fitness in a more extreme but more forgiving course (show jumping). I can't really equate this well to the various options available but it might be amusing to set up something similar for the generals... Day 1 could be a series of "challenges" against a fixed list (i.e. everyone has to stop the same orc waugh run fairly impartially by the same set of rules like always charging the nearest targets or something). Then do a day of head-to-head battles against opponents with objectives and more "normal" scenarios. Then do a day (perhaps in something like Necromunda) with bonuses based on performance the day before in the head-to-head.

Aye, you did and it was a beautiful thing but from your description it was not clear whether or not the original was hardback or not and given that The Crescent and the Cross was right next to it I was confused by what I was seeing. Specifically, I recalled your mention of the cardstock battle boards and I thought that there was no way this thing could have contained those and any rules of any substance.

Ok, I was into Panzer Depot the other day and got the poop on how they game... It's possible that I could make it to their Saga nights so I was looking at rulebooks and stuff in the limited time I had. Is the main rulebook hardbound or did I really find the right thing that is about the size and thickness of a magazine?

Artillery is for the masochistic. Once upon a time good artillery was a thing to be feared but after one too many matches against good artillery (and stupidly sitting in the open baiting it) artillery has been beaten to death with the nerf bat. At this point, artillery beyond about tier IV is about watching the match while wasting a slot on the team. Figuring out what your playstyle is will help you a whole lot but it can be hard to do before about tier VII. Once you hit VII or VIII you actually see everything that tanks can do and can make informed choices.

Thanks for the info, Koyote. Been over there a couple of times in the last few days but have been unable to get in there... What kind of game shop closes at 6p and is not open on Sundays? <sigh>

NE Seattle. Duvall if you know it, otherwise think Woodinville.

Where's the stuff for the north taking place? I live out in the boonies and would need to add time for commute to game-time for planning.