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Koyote last won the day on April 25

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About Koyote

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    Disturber of the Peace

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  1. I did some work on my HG cav and Bedouin Warrior cav. The HG cav started out over a year ago as kitbashed Age of Crusades Lithuanian cav. It’s a mix of the GB Heavy Arab Cav kit and the Fireforge Medieval Russian infantry kit. To repurpose them I replaced their Russian heads and teardrop shields with Arab heads and shields. Now that they are (hopefully) in their final form, I used GS to fill gaps and add belts, buckles, and veils. I am going to paint the shields separate, so I’m leaving them off for now. I spent three hours on the Perry Miniatures Bedouins with a hobby knife and GS cleaning up their dreadful casts. I will definitely think twice before purchasing any more Perry Miniatures’ metals. Yuck.
  2. One of my take-aways from my first game of AoM is that it would sure be nice to have tokens to mark units subject to certain spells. Well, it looks like a company called Historique wasted no time filling this need. 🙂 LINKY
  3. It looks like Legendary Units will not be allowed in the SAGA Age of Viking and the Age of Crusades tournaments. There's no word yet on whether or not Legendary Units will be allowed in the AoM tournament.
  4. Thanks, Ish. Yes, that horse is ridiculously massive. He must have stolen it from Christian Crusader. This model comes from the Victrix Chariot kit sprue. My only modification was replacing the original spear shaft metal rod, which is both thicker and more durable. It will make a terrific druid (Sorcerer) for my AoM Celt Horde warband.
  5. I did some work on my Moorish Warlord's display base. The Warlord's base rests in a recess and is secured in place by magnets. The plan is to attach the standard bearer and musician to the base via magnets. This will make it easier to transport the models in a carrying case. The standard bearer is from Brother Vinni's Arabia model line. The musician is made from Gripping Beast plastic components. The body and head are from the Arab Spearmen kit and the right arm and horn are from the Arab Heavy Cavalry kit.
  6. Ted, a friend of mine who I introduced to SAGA, just bought his first house. Normal people give bottles of wine as housewarming gifts. Gamers give toys. 😀 Ted plays Vikings and plans to use them in AoM as a Horde warband. He told me that he wants to include in his AoM warband a massive wolf, reminiscent of Fenrir, as a Monster. With this in mind, for a housewarming gift I ordered him the model pictured below from a 3D printer who sells on Etsy (HQMiniatures). I bought the base separately from Renedra, Ltd. The model arrived today. Its printed in resin and it turned out very nice. I posed it next to a ruler and a Victrix 28mm Viking to provide a sense of scale.
  7. This thread is intended to announce the AdeptiCon SAGA tournaments, but even if you don't play SAGA, with 460 tournaments, event games, and hobby seminars covering all aspects of the miniature war gaming hobby, AdeptiCon likely has something to offer you. Last year, AdeptiCon had over 5,600 attendees! Over the years I've made the pilgrimage to Schauburg Illinois (a suburb of Chicago) a half dozen times, to hang out with friends, eat authentic Chicago-style deep dish pizza, drink copious amounts of mediocre beer (the Midwest has sh*t for beer), and play in Adepticon 40K and SAGA tournaments. I have never been disappointed. https://www.adepticon.org/ Below is the tentative line up for 2020's SAGA tournaments. Each event is a 3-game, one day event. In years past the Singles tournaments were 6 points and the Doubles teams were comprised of teams of two, 4 points warbands. The standard Age of Magic game is 8 points, so I suspect that the AoM tournament will be the same. Thursday, March 26: Age of Magic Singles Friday, March 27: Age of Vikings Doubles Saturday, March 28: Age of Crusades Singles Sunday, March 29: Age of Vikings Singles
  8. My GS cast shields turned out pretty good. Also, I've finally selected a model to use as my Moors' Warlord, Fireforge Games' Saladin. Of course, me being me, I can't leave well enough alone, so I did a head swap and added a shield. The former was done to make the model look a bit less glitzy and the latter was added to cover up the model's upper left arm, which is positioned in an unnatural looking way. The horse is a huge, barrel chested beast that dwarfs the Gripping Beast plastic Arab cavalry horses that I'm using for hearthguards' steeds. I decreased its height slightly by cutting off the bottom half of each of its hooves. As I did for the Warlord of my Britons warband, I'll likely create a 3" DIA magnetized display base that I can insert my Moorish Warlord into.
  9. My order from Brother Vinni's arrive late last week. Included in my order is fun magic carpet mini that may replace the Hell Dorado mini as my Desert Nomad's Sorcerer I haven't decided if my Desert Nomad Sorcerer will be 'mounted' or 'on-foot', but thanks to some very small magnets, the magic carpet model can be used as both. Below is the model painted, attached to his 'on-foot' base via a magnet. Below is the (yet unpainted) magic carpet itself. The carpet is cast a bit too thin, so as expected, parts broke off or were damaged when I removed it from the sprue and trimmed it. I attached the carpet to the 'flight' stand using a magnet attached to the bottom of the carpet. The magnet that you can see in the photo holds the rider's left foot to the carpet. The other little metal thing sticking out of the surface of the carpet is a very small length of metal rod that inserts into a hole on the bottom of the rider's right foot. One would expect that a model on a flying carpet would have the Flight rule, but unfortunately, this option isn't available to the Lords of the Wild Sorcerers, so it will have to serve as a low level flying carpet -more of a 'hover carpet' than an actual flying carpet. Perhaps the Sorcerer suffers from Acrophobia, and can fly higher but doesn't do so out of a paralyzing fear of heights? Sorcerers are a very strange breed, so anything is possible. 😄
  10. My Footsore truncated teardrop shields have arrived. Overall, the casts I quite good. On the back of each shield is a little nub that I assume is intended to rest against the top of the model's shield hand. I've tested the fit with the nub in place and I don't like it, so I've clipped off the nubs and used a pin vice to drill a shallow recess into the back of each shield. The recesses create a ball and socket joint with the shield hand, creating a snugger fit and making it easier to rotate the angle of the shield. Inspired by illustration in Osprey Publishing's The Moors -The Islamic West 7th-15th Centuries AD, I've decided to replace my cavalry models' current shields with small round shields. As such, my Footsore order also included an Arab Round Mixed Shield pack for my cavalry. My favorite shield from this pack is the shield with the four round studs on its surface, but sadly pack included only two of these shields. The studded shields are a simple design and have a simple, flat back, so I used Instant Mold and greenstuff to make 6 more. Below is a photo of the molds and GS shields. Before snapping this photo I only had time to trim one of the GS shields. I'll trim the remaining five when I get home from work tonight. If you're not familiar with Instant Mold, it's a great product for doing simple greenstuff casting. I used in the past to make skull icons for Space Marine should pads and to cast giant demon toads (pictured below) for a Frostgrave project. To use the product you place it hot water until it becomes pliable. Once the product softens, you remove it from the water and press your master into the product and then let it cool. After a few minutes you remove your master from the mold and you are ready to start casting. The product can be used over and over again by reheating, so if your mold doesn't turn out quite right or if you have to destroy the mold to remove the casted model (as pictured below), then you can start over by putting the mold into hot water. Removing the cast from the mold before the greenstuff hardens will deform your cast, so let your greenstuff cure overnight before removing it from the mold. I've found that I get the best results if I create small vents in my molds using the point of an xacto blade. This allows trapped air to escape when you are pressing greenstuff into the mold.
  11. I finally got around to adding a tattoo to my Celtic giant, Cribwr Gawr. This model is Shield Maiden Astrid, made by Brother Vinni Miniatures. She, along with the 3 tattooed Curaidh models that I previously painted for my Dark Age Irish warband, will form a unit of 4 Beserkers for my Age of Magic Celtic Horde warband.
  12. The scarves turned out pretty good. I think they add a lot to the models.
  13. I've started work 'gussying up' my Moors' bases. I've added rocks, skulls, bones, and some scorpions from Black Cat Bases' Small Animal model line. Of course, I still need to add sand. I've read that the Moors used drums for their psychological effect, so along with a standard and a unit leader, I've included a drummer in each of my units of spearmen. Black Cat Bases' scorpion sprue. I'm having second thoughts on my choice of shields. The Artizan Design hide shields are quite nice, but they are rather large and kind of bland. I ordered Footsore Miniatures' Arab Truncated Teardrop Shield pack, along with the accompanying Little Big Men Studio's decals. I like proportions of the Footsore shields better and the decals that I selected aren't too flashy, so they fit my Tuareg/Berber theme well enough. GB's Arab Spearmen kit doesn't include enough heads wrapped in a tagelmust (the long scarf used as a turban and veil) for both units of spearmen, so for the unit of spearmen pictured on the left, I'm going to use greenstuff to sculpt a length of scarf that hangs from the sides of their helmets, similar to model pictured below. I'll likely do the same with my cavalry models that aren't wearing a tagelmust.
  14. I'm much happier with this recipe. The blue is Army Painter's Deep Blue, highlighted with a mixture of Deep Blue and Army Painter's Griffon Blue. I added a light drybrush of GW's Tallarn Sand around the bottom of the robes to made the robe edges look dusty and a bit worn.
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