TheBeninator

No idea how this game works, but one look at those sheets and my guess is it looks something like...

Those pewter dudes with the leaf capes (waywatchers?) are such nice models to paint! The cloaks practically paint themselves with a drybrush. Did the acetone appear to add any value, or would you skip it next time?

Ok, I am dithering about color choice again, need to just pick something and run with it. Next up are the knights forlorn. These are elite knights on foot. To not have them confused with the peasant rabble, I wanted to add a fancy color, like bright yellow or purple to their mix. Rules wise, these knights also have forest strider (no idea why) so I am drawn to give them more green/brown to match the generic color scheme of a forest. The models are a little different. Only 1/3 of them have capes, but the capes are totally optional. All of the arms (shoulder to fingertip) are chainmail. This leaves a pretty limited number of natrual "breaks" for changing out color. Some thoughts are to switch colors at the belt-line, which might be wacky, and also would take a bunch of extra time. Or, I could forgo the multi-color approach and just split the unit into 3 basic tunic colors (so tunics 1 color, chain mail another). All of the models will have shields which are very similar to the peasant shields, so I can just get the yellow or purple in on the shields instead of on the model. https://imgur.com/a/MT67vQC Here are a handful of color schemes I just threw together without a lot of thinking. The browns, blues, reds, and 1 of the greens are all represented in the peasants, so there will be a unification in color scheme there. Scheme 6 for example is basically the archer unit color scheme + purple (plumb). Any objective, subjective, off topic, or pre-new-years thoughts?

Oh my gawd, that''s my Birthday too!

Unit Complete! There are a couple of order of operations things I would change for the next unit, but I think for the most part I have my method down. Made the stakes removable from the front of the unit, otherwise they will magnetize to the front of the tray.

Assembled! Next steps are touch ups, perhaps some swords, sticking to bases, the strong tone bath, and finally basing. The archer kit was a bit strange. The poses are kind of goofy. It was not really clear what left hands go with what right hands. I had assumed it was based on proximity, but there are a lot of right/left combos that just don't make sense. So it looks like some of the archers are tucking their bows to their shoulders and throwing gang signs with their right hands. I am off to see family, returning this weekend. Hoping to have the unit done by Sunday.

I don't understand this one. Yakety Saxons is a winner in my book.

A total point limit may make more sense, yes. Not sure if 500 is too high or not. It would fix the characters from loading up on upgrades that done come out of special equipment. For most armies the BSB holders seem to be the differentiation between the upper tier and the lower tier characters. There are obviously many exceptions to that though. I dont know all the other armies enough to know who can be a BSB or not. There are also obvious exceptions, such as the Cuatl. I think the set point limit fixes the ambiguity problem that my "BSB theory" has. No Stank at 2k since it also runs off the armory allowance (20%) which is also currently set to 3/4 of it's original value (15%). Depending on when that 3/4 restriction is removed it could take until 3500 points before a Stank comes into play. 2k point masters might be alright. I will say that a master with Wrath of God would be super broken, but I don't know if anyone will actually bring that to a 2k game.

Its about time someone took on the honest work of converting the game to hex bases.

That's not T9A jargon, hence my confusion.

Ah, the nomenclature is confusing to me. So "base cost" is really price per model "base cost adjustment" is the cost to take a unit entry. Is that an army builder thing or an andrewgeddon thing?

Gosh SE are expensive. What do all the "Base cost adjustments" mean exactly? That's not referring to 2.1 -> 2.2 changes is it?

It has not been officially stated yet, but I believe that there will be a point during the campaign at which we can "upgrade" your warlord. So in practice you should be able to swap out your warlord for a new warlord, thus opening yourself up for the Miser and Sentinel combo you are referring to by 4500 points. The "switch out" would likely occur at 3k or 3.5k points. This applies to all armies. So for myself, id be switching out my Paladin for a Duke. All the campaign traits that the warlord gains will carry forward. Think of it as a mid campaign promotion/evolution for your warlord. In discussion with Wentwizard about the details.

You'll love the Yaks, just you wait and see... Nothing looks good w/o paint.

I’m just using the yaks to fill in space. Peasants come in boxes of 48. Units are min 30, or max 60. Therefore, 1 box +2 yaks is either 1 full unit or two min units. thats also 12 peasants I don’t have to paint and yaks follow the rule of cool

Progress for an afternoon: All of the 3 main base colors (red, blue, green) are done. Working on the skin currently (need to finish hands and necks). After that will be belts, shoes, bows, quivers, swords (for some lucky peasants), and helmets. The archers are without shields so that cuts down on painting time pretty significantly. This unit is probably half way done? Ill also need to make up some stakes for the free stake wall they get. That'll be easy with toothpicks and a bit of green stuff. Keeping my eyes open for decent braziers, or something to remind me that they can set their arrows on fire. The wiz kids minis, or whatever it is that makes the D&D stuff has a couple braziers, but they look like they should be in a dungeon, not hauled around on the battlefield. I really like that the archers come in a box of 24, as that is a perfect 3 ranks of line formation to use with volley fire! Also not shown is that the footknights got based white and their faces were painted. Still wafting on the color scheme, ill share some potentials soon. Also I put together a unit filler. War Yak! Another on the way. Casting some more crates out of green stuff first.

I just ordered another box of 48 rabble :D. My "cavalry army" wont have cavalry for quite some time. Got all the sprues ready for base coats which I am about to start. Pre-processing was washing/scrubbing. Then I do a bunch of pre-cuts on the sprue (so that there is typically just 1 or 2 points where the bit attaches to the sprue). Then I cut away all the parts of the sprue close to the previously cut sprue points, that way I can get my airbrush/brush in there easier. These two boxes have been pretty good about where the sprues attach to the bits. For perhaps 70% of the bits, the points of contact are in attachment areas, so I don't have to repaint after pulling from the sprue. The other 30%, primarily shields, will require a bit of touching up. I am sold on sprue-painting, its the beast.

Decisions, decisions. Do I build 24 archers? Or do I build 24 heavy infantry? Considering the upcoming campaign, I am partly drawn to the archers for the obvious "defensive action" At the same time.... Forlorn Knights are pretty neat defensively with heavy armor + shield, the blessing; BECAUSE THE LADY CARES!, and a bastard sword which can be used as a spear in the first round of combat (bringing them to agility 6?!). Also, they NEGATE devastating charge. So people who plan on cycle charging them with cavalry will suffer from limp lance syndrome. Without a solid way to decide, I think I am going to have to build them BOTH. The next two weekends are going to be very busy 😮

Curse you and your Potter mug Splinx! CURSE I SAY!

BANISHED I SAY!

I BANISH THIS HERETICAL DISCUSSION OF 40K!

Hah, good catch I am making some wording changes to the rules to make things a bit more clear, ill add that in. Ill get Wentwizard to publish it later.

Yep!

You are right that it is a bit disproportional, but its not a huge difference. (2/3 of one PD). I'd ere towards not changing it as it has pretty minimal impact and it's a deviation from how the rules actually work, which is bad practice. I think changing as few rules as possible during the game is important, especially for new players. I'm not saying you will get it wrong, but consistency in how the rules work is always good. To make everything work in that context, there is a hefty set of rules outside of the game (list building) that are modified, as you can tell. Regardless, good point to bring up.

I guess if we are using modified flux cards it shouldn’t matter. The reasons not to use a wizard master: the level 5 and 6 spells can generally be really powerful (lore dependent). Drop wrath of god on the defenders deployment zone twice, GG. pyromancy may be a bit broken at this point level (can throw 1-2 dice at 3-4 spells). Most of your targets are core so pyro becomes super powerful. on the flip side, the master upgrade is like >10% of your list, so it’s a lot of eggs in one basket. My original impression was to not play hero hammer, but I could be blowing it out of proportion.