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11 hours ago, Sgt. Rock said:

Ender. I sent the Monoprices back before I got it. The Ender spends almost as much time out of commission as running, and has produced more failed prints than successful ones. I'm beginning to think I'm just bad at it.

What brand of filiment are you using? And What color?

I've found I can only run grey, high quality through my ender.  And I have to change my nozzle usually 2-3 times per spool.

 

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I usually stick with Hatchbox, either grey or black. The biggest obstacle I constantly run into is bed adhesion. I level, I re-level, I do everything I can think of and that other people can think of, but anything more than a few small prints (like, less than 2-3" square) won't stick, it either turns into spaghetti or melts all over the hot end and I need to replace it (which is the current state of affairs.)

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Between 2 of my friends and I with Enders we have had different results.  1 works great almost all the time, mine is decent most of the time after lots of tweaking, and the last has been a disaster.  That could also be due in part to our varying degrees of mechanical aptitude.

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13 minutes ago, Justjokin said:

Sorry to hear that! Any particular issue, or just one after another? 

 

Just one thing after another. Bad bed adhesion, parts breaking down, bad filament, just everything seems to go wrong. I've poured good money after bad into the thing, and I'm considering just cutting my losses, selling it, and getting a resin machine. I hate to consider that, because it was a birthday gift from my partner, but I never seem to be able to get the damn thing working right. Every time I think I have it dialed in, something goes wrong and I have to walk away for a while to keep myself from getting pissed off.

2 minutes ago, Dreg said:

Between 2 of my friends and I with Enders we have had different results.  1 works great almost all the time, mine is decent most of the time after lots of tweaking, and the last has been a disaster.  That could also be due in part to our varying degrees of mechanical aptitude.

I think that might be part of it. I'm not a very technically adept person, so these things are often beyond me. I've tried to learn, but it's tough when I have so much other stuff going on in life to be able to sit down and take a course or two in electronics and mechanical engineering when I just want to print some terrain and stuff.

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I have a MonoPrice Maker Ultimate FDM that has been down for about a year with a piece of filament heated/mushroomed and stuck after the feeder and before the extruder.  Finally tore it all apart, cleared the block and got it 99% back together. Then I found out I lost a 3mm hex screw to hold the heating element into the heater block!  I got frustrated and just wrapped the whole thing up in plastic wrap to be reattempted later. Simple issue to track down another screw, but I was just so frustrated!!

This individual processes and problems can be broken down and compartmentalized, otherwise it can be overwhelming. There's almost always tricks and techniques that can be learned without requiring deep understanding. 

FDM plate adhesion? Make sure your filament isn't old.  I added glass to my heated build plate, and then use a thin layer of glue stick, like you'd use in elementary.  

Leverage your support group!! 🙂

Do small/quick test prints and work your way up from there.  

With Resin, it's a different set of problems.  I do find myself missing my FDM sometime. 

 

 

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I have a glass plate. I've tried hairspray, I've tried glue stick, I've tried just bare. I have a build-tak plate, as well, which usually produces better results, but when a print fails, it's impossible to get the damn thing clean, and then I have to pitch it and go back to the glass plate again. Even with brand new filament, it does this. Sometimes I have to re-dry my filament if it's been sitting there for a while, but I just have had so much trouble with it. Honestly, bed adhesion is my number one problem. Nothing else seems to be giving me trouble, just that. 

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 I feel your pain.  I got mine, had some ups and downs and then moved and didn't touch it for a year.  Then I got it back out and spent a decent amount of time and effort(new extruder, screwed up my hotend so had to replace that) got it working all right and then the pandemic happened so I didn't have any motivation to print cause I wasn't going to be playing with what I was printing.

At this point if I am going to get back into it then I am considering spending a bit more to get a FDM or Resin printer that I wouldn't have to spend so much time messing with to get it printing how I want.

 

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5 hours ago, Justjokin said:

First attempt at a 1/100 Leopard 2A6:

image.thumb.png.b2779c542ae269f6fba9084a7660c381.png

 

I screwed up the support on the back left of the body, so those will need to be redone and resliced, before reprinting.

 

Nice some of the last few things I was printing were some 1/32 WWII tanks from thingiverse for bolt action.  Did you grab yours from some giant zip files from there?

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On 2/26/2021 at 12:44 PM, Sgt. Rock said:

I have a glass plate. I've tried hairspray, I've tried glue stick, I've tried just bare. I have a build-tak plate, as well, which usually produces better results, but when a print fails, it's impossible to get the damn thing clean, and then I have to pitch it and go back to the glass plate again. Even with brand new filament, it does this. Sometimes I have to re-dry my filament if it's been sitting there for a while, but I just have had so much trouble with it. Honestly, bed adhesion is my number one problem. Nothing else seems to be giving me trouble, just that. 

I run a glass bed and hairspray, generally have too much adhesion.

what slicer are you running?

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@Dreg There is a 1/100 Modern collection from the same guy who does all the 1/100 1/200 scale tank zips.  You have to download each of the files separately, as the big zip link is broken now.  

Good idea for upping the extrusion slightly Scott. 

Got a hole in my FEP and resin cured to the lcd panel.  Scratched the LCD glass cleaning it off.

😞

 

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So I've been MIA for a while. Work, Covid, Kids, etc. But I did get an Anycubic Photon and Wash and Cure last year and have been printing up mostly 10mm stuff for now. I'm kind of going all in on minihammer and other miniaturized versions of games. I haven't had the time to learn how to support models, but I have learned a good deal about cure settings by trial and error.

My most recent army I'm working on is the Chaos Dwarfs from Ankylo Miniatures. CDs have always been my favorite army.

I would like to get some CD scenery printed up in 10mm scale, along with some other scenery items, but I don't have an SLA printer, just resin. If anyone is interested in printing up some scenery, let me know. I have a TON of STL files from Patreons and Kickstarters if you're looking for something in particular.

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Ok, scratches on the LCD are as bad as they sound. 0/10 would not recommend.  $30 LCD from Amazon and the installation hassle as penance for my transgression, completely worth it. 

Also... 

Squirrel!  

Ortur Laser Master 2 20W Engraving & Cutting - YouTube

Desktop Laser! - YouTube (While I don't want this for making money... I love capability!)

Buy it?

ORTUR Laser Master 2 Black 20W (US Plug) Laser Engraving Machine Sale, Price & Reviews | Gearbest

$312 shipped. 

20W in this case is a 5500mw laser, which you will find commonly listed. 

This one is 400mmx430mm (15.7inx17x ish...)

 

Anyone got any experiences to share? Frickin Lasers are ok here right?

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For 3d resin printers, height is the biggest factor in time to print. Detail = layers. Layers = seconds. But you do every layer in about 5-8 seconds. (*not counting all the other variables....) You can print a full block one inch tall the size of the build area as fast as you can print a single pixel, one inch tall.  The Mars Pro 2 has a resolution of 1620x2560.

At relatively the same quality, I can print 3 t-72s standing up in about 6 hours. I can print 1 t-7s horizontal in 1 hour and 33 minutes.

If I am there to babysit, I can print them 1 at a time. If I'm going to sleep, I can just print 3 and wake up to a finished print. 3 vs 5 for the same 8 hour period.. (Sleep, I highly recommend it.) So grinding... that's 13 tanks a day...

Your mileage may vary.

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