Jump to content

Recommended Posts

On 9/18/2019 at 9:58 AM, TheBeninator said:

Huh, I don't really know what that is.

Stuff like this?


Pretty sure I have seen this at GG.

Looks like Lamia Medium is basically just a thinning medium? I have vallejo thinner, ill give that a shot!

I literally did a weathering pigment class at my  free painting class at dice age last week. 

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 135
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

What do you get when you combine a 3 day weekend and some serious procrastination on Adulting? A finished unit! Way ahead of the December schedule! Heres a shot of the shields before I

Hear yee, hear yee, the benevolent King has decree that Knights shall no longer be the sole sword and shield of the rhelm. We call upon the brave peasants to take up arms and show their valor, skill,

Update Still have not started painting the Forlorn knights. I am going to do a myriad of green + white as a half/half vertical split. This means a lot of free hand on the edges, we shall see if t

Posted Images


Next steps are touch ups, perhaps some swords, sticking to bases, the strong tone bath, and finally basing.

The archer kit was a bit strange. The poses are kind of goofy. It was not really clear what left hands go with what right hands. I had assumed it was based on proximity, but there are a lot of right/left combos that just don't make sense. So it looks like some of the archers are tucking their bows to their shoulders and throwing gang signs with their right hands.

I am off to see family, returning this weekend. Hoping to have the unit done by Sunday.


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok, I am dithering about color choice again, need to just pick something and run with it.

Next up are the knights forlorn. These are elite knights on foot. To not have them confused with the peasant rabble, I wanted to add a fancy color, like bright yellow or purple to their mix.

Rules wise, these knights also have forest strider (no idea why) so I am drawn to give them more green/brown to match the generic color scheme of a forest.

The models are a little different. Only 1/3 of them have capes, but the capes are totally optional. All of the arms (shoulder to fingertip) are chainmail. This leaves a pretty limited number of natrual "breaks" for changing out color. Some thoughts are to switch colors at the belt-line, which might be wacky, and also would take a bunch of extra time.

Or, I could forgo the multi-color approach and just split the unit into 3 basic tunic colors (so tunics 1 color, chain mail another). All of the models will have shields which are very similar to the peasant shields, so I can just get the yellow or purple in on the shields instead of on the model.


Here are a handful of color schemes I just threw together without a lot of thinking. The browns, blues, reds, and 1 of the greens are all represented in the peasants, so there will be a unification in color scheme there. Scheme 6 for example is basically the archer unit color scheme + purple (plumb).

Any objective, subjective, off topic, or pre-new-years thoughts?


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...


Still have not started painting the Forlorn knights. I am going to do a myriad of green + white as a half/half vertical split. This means a lot of free hand on the edges, we shall see if this works...

For this particular unit, ill be putting the airbrush away 😭.

In my hobby time, I have spent the time not painting forlorn by making and basing the movement trays for what I have and started to paint the battle-yaks and a catapult which will be a stand in for a proper trebuchet until I invest the time to scratch build a treb.



Link to post
Share on other sites
On 9/24/2019 at 7:57 PM, Ish said:

Looks great, just one minor critique: the second shield from the left in the picture isn’t allowed under the rule of tincture.

Gules a pale azure,  or “a red field with a blue bar down the middle on it” for those of you that haven’t been obsessed by heraldry since age eight, just isn’t cricket. Wot, wot.

To sum it up very briefly, you’re never supposed to put a color on a color or a metal on a metal. The heraldic metals are or (gold or yellow) and argent (silver or white). The colors are the other colors.

You can put a thin line of gold/yellow/white/silver on either edge of the blue shield (this is called fimbriation if you want to sound fancy) to make it kosher.


Someone who actually is into heraldry as much as me! Lol I’m flabbergasted I missed this at the beginning of this thread! Ish you’re 1000% right! Ben you need to go hang your head in shame! Lol 

Link to post
Share on other sites
19 minutes ago, splinx said:

Someone who actually is into heraldry as much as me! Lol I’m flabbergasted I missed this at the beginning of this thread! Ish you’re 1000% right! Ben you need to go hang your head in shame! Lol 

Clearly this isn’t the fault of His Royal Highness Ben, Prince of Inator. It’s the fault of those dirty peasants in the levies... I’m sure our host had the cur soundly thrashed.

Link to post
Share on other sites
On 11/19/2019 at 1:04 PM, TheBeninator said:

This looks like an easy spot to save some time for the future. So I pose to you rattle can primers.

What do you do in the winter when the humidity is not within the bounds of what people say is "optimal"?


You can rattlecan in your basement but make sure to:

Turn off your heater so you dont blow the fumes throughout the house.

Setup a box fan with an airfilter duct taped to the back next to the models you are priming. this will pull out a ton of aersoled paint floating around.

Heat up your rattle can by filling a cup or bucket with warm water, not hot, and let the can hang out and get warm in it. Shake for 3 to 5 minutes straight. This will help keep an even flow of propellent and paint.

I personally use Krylon and Duplicolor auto primer.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

Almost there, next up is the bath. I am not sure what ill get with the white shield, but I don't do test models, I do test units.

In equitytane fashion there are 3 greens, there are 8 tunics of each green, 8 shields of each green, every tunic to shield combo is represented 4 times each. Colors are evenly distributed to shield shape. I failed to achieve equalitytane parity with the weapons...

shameful display.... 




Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, TheBeninator said:

Who has done paper banners here? What is your process and why do you prefer it? 

I kind of want to go paper with this army.

<Cranky old man voice> In my day, sonny, the only options were paper banners or those terrible stickers that Gee Dubya sold... 

I used to use 1/4” graph paper from a pad. The pad’s lines were only printed on one side, and were dark enough to bee seen through to the other side – to use as guidelines – but not dark enough that they will be seen through paint when the painting is done on the non-lined side.

Lay the banner-holding mini on his side against the gridded side of the paper so you can roughly sketch out the size and shape you need. For infantry, I usually found a 1” height and a 1.25” to 1.5” length worked best, with cavalry I’d usually go 1”-1.25” height with 2-2.25” length.

Leave a 1/4” gap (one grid column) and then trace out the reverse outline of the shape on the other side. 

Flip the paper over and then start painting. You want to paint from the “bottom up.”  Lay down the color that your field will be, it’ll probably take two or three thin coats. Give it ample time to dry. Feel free to “color outside the lines” at this point, you don’t cut out the flag until the end.

After you’ve got the field done and dry, use black paint to paint the outline of whatever shape – dragon, bear, lion, whatever – and color in the inside in black too. Once that’s done, go back and paint in the color bitz of the shape, leaving a bit of the black as an outline. Clean up as needed.

Flip it over and cut it out using the grid as a guide. Slather one half and the middle bit with Elmer’s white glue.

Carefully wrap around making sure all corners match up - and wiping off any excess glue that squishes out the sides. Be sure pinch the flag together at the pole so it wraps tightly around at the pole. Give it a bit to start to go tacky, but before it totally dries, gently pinch and roll it so it looks like it’s flapping.

Once it’s totally dry, you will probably need to trim a errant corner or two and might need to touch up the paint along the edges. 

Lastly, hit the whole thing with the matte spray sealant of your choice.


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Create New...