Liquid Green Stuff

[Mack]

Sorry if this is asked before but has anyone used liquid green stuff? I want to quickly fill some minor gaps in a batch of models. Usually for minor stuff I use some model paste watered down slightly to fill the gap and cut down on sanding. This works fine for minor stuff but I have a couple of spots that are slightly too wide for paste, green stuff and extra fine milliput seem like overkill.  The other day I saw a bottle of citadel liquid green stuff, which seems to be intended for just this purpose.  It has really mixed reviews though, but some seem to be in trying to use it like regular green stuff putty and the product being dried out when they bought it.

Has anyone used this in the past?  I don't want to waste time and money on something that is just going to sit on my work shelf.  And, if someone has used it, any pointers on using it for minor gaps?

[InfestedKerrigan]

I hear it is crap.

 

Depending on what is being gap filled, I either use Super Glue and Baking Soda, or green stuff.

[Ish]

As a gap filler, it's okay, it's not great, but it's okay... Works best at very small gaps, such as when two halves of a join don't quite line-up evenly or if you want to hide a join, like say you swapped a spear for a banner and need to hide the cut in the shaft. I was given a bottle of it as a freebie back when it debuted, used it a few times but found it more trouble than it was worth given my solidly middle of the pack painting skills. Gave it to a friend of mine who has much better skills.

"Uncle Atom" is a YouTuber who came up with an interesting trick using liquid greenstuff as texture paint. I'm thinking this technique might be handy for Gaslands, but I'm not sure if I want to pay Citadel Paint prices to get another bottle.

[Mack]

Thank you, thats just the kind of information I wanted.  If its just about as good as what I'm using its not worth the effort.  That sounds about the same as my modeling paste, which i still have a bunch of. I will look at the video on Table Top Minions to see some of its other uses.  I have a box of hot wheels that I've been thinking of converting to Gaslands, I just have so many other projects. 

[Guest]

Yeah, I got some liquid green stuff once. I use it every once in a while. Narrow gap filler.

Did this guy a while back. Liquid Green stuff on the wrist because it just didn't line up on one side. Worked great, very simple. 40mm round base, if wondering about scale.

With basecoat on, can't see the green stuff unless you look for it.

[WestRider]

You can generally avoid the dried out ones by checking the seal before you buy. If any of the little threads around the bottom of the lid have been broken, it might well be dried out, but if they're all intact, it's probably OK.

I've had a number of issues trying to use it, ranging from unpredictable levels of shrinking as it cures to just completely falling off when I try to sand down the excess, but I've also had it work perfectly. Odd stuff, and when it works, it's good, but it's frustrating how often it doesn't.

[Ish]

6 minutes ago, WestRider said:

Odd stuff, and when it works, it's good, but it's frustrating how often it doesn't.

To be fair, that describes my experience with the regular green stuff two-part putty. I never quite seem to be able to get the yellow-to-blue ratio the same twice, so every application of it is slightly inconsistent from the last... 

[WestRider]

I won't deny that the regular GS can also be frustrating, but for me at least, it never has been to nearly the same extent as the liquid stuff is.

[Guest]

For regular GS, I highly recommend Amazon. Comes very fresh. That site clearly doesn't have a good grasp on how much GS sells for locally.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MQ7EHHC/?coliid=I2O94AS0PUI15D&colid=15UMIXQRJ76Q0&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

 

The liquid green stuff that GW makes is still handy. Doesn't need mixing, works well for small jobs, easily manipulated.

If I had to describe the difference, GS is for actual sculpting, while liquid green stuff is for gap filling. On subject, that "grey stuff" is great for ragged caps and torn cloth, as you can "stretch" it into a torn cloth with pretty minimal effort.

 

Also a huge fan of the milliput "black stuff" which is also a great amazon one:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002CSX7Z8/?coliid=I2BB9YM6TXEVRT&colid=15UMIXQRJ76Q0&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

The milliput stuff isn't sticky like green stuff is, and the black version dries really hard (becomes carvable, but not cutable). I use it to make stones and rocks for bases, as well as bricks and the like. Once dry and painted, it can be difficult to discern it from the actual plastic of the model if going by touch. It's also a bit cheaper than green stuff, so depending on the scale of your project, the milliput might be the better option. 

A few times, I've used the black stuff for regular sculpture. It's closer to clay than the green stuff is, and it's very durable once it dries. Doesn't stretch as well, though.

[andy]

I've given up on "liquid" putties. I've tried GW and Vallejo brands, and they shrink so much they need two or three applications to fill even the smallest hole/gap. 

[scottshoemaker]

The best gap filler is baking soda and thin CA glue

[Guest]

Oh, another one of note, is if you mix styrofoam and superglue, makes the glue thicker, which can work for gap filling to a certain degree. Makes the superglue into more of a gel.

Not really something that has merit with plastic models, but back when metal models were more common, this was more practical.

[Mack]

Thanks for the tip.  I'm always wary about additives to CA glue though. Its great when it works, but my fingers are clumsy and I always manage to manage make some sort of mess.  When the glue cures in a few seconds its rock solid, which is great when I don't make a mistake.  But I always have some patch of rock solid finger print or smudge that I have a nightmare cleaning up, usually it doesn't show up much until I prime the model. 

[scottshoemaker]

The trick is to place the baking soda first, pack the gap, use a brush to brush it away from where it shouldn't be, then use a needle or fishing line to act as a drip guide for the CA glue.  The glue should be as thin a possible.

[Guest]

1 hour ago, Mack said:

Thanks for the tip.  I'm always wary about additives to CA glue though. Its great when it works, but my fingers are clumsy and I always manage to manage make some sort of mess.  When the glue cures in a few seconds its rock solid, which is great when I don't make a mistake.  But I always have some patch of rock solid finger print or smudge that I have a nightmare cleaning up, usually it doesn't show up much until I prime the model. 

Part of good art is making mistakes and working them into the art so they don't look like mistakes.

[Mack]

Thanks for the idea of packing the gap before hand with baking soda before hand.  I think I just need to be more methodical and slow down if I'm using that method.  I usually use CA and baking soda to speed up the sit time for hard to attach pieces. It would give me an excuse to try these applicators out.

 

 

[scottshoemaker]

Another trick is to use a sewing needle backwards, so the eye is out.  Surface tension will keep a drop worth of CA in the eyehole.

[andy]

I've tried the "glue loopers" and still have a few in my toolbox. They work well but are incredibly fragile (thus need frequent replacement), and the need to dip them into the glue led me to some pretty reckless glue-bottle behavior 😄 IME, a cool idea that's great in theory but rough in practice.

[VonVilkee]

13 hours ago, andy said:

I've tried the "glue loopers" and still have a few in my toolbox. They work well but are incredibly fragile (thus need frequent replacement), and the need to dip them into the glue led me to some pretty reckless glue-bottle behavior 😄 IME, a cool idea that's great in theory but rough in practice.

I have yet to break one. I use a Zippo lighter to clean it as CA glue is very flammable, for long glueing sessions I light a candle.

 

As for the glue itself I put a puddle in what ever handy piece of trash lid I have.

 

Hope these tips help.

[andy]

Good tips. I end up mashing them against the bottle or the model.

[VonVilkee]

Regular cleaning helps keep the glue flowing... I've definitely done this pattern with thicker or old glue: dip in glue, touch model, dip in candle flame to eliminate glue then rinse repeat.

[Guest]

Oh, for large hole filling, like in terrain projects. One time I cut my discarded GW sprues into lots of little "rocks" and filled the hole with those, then puttied over that (Milliput Black Stuff). Actually turned out pretty good, as the sprues didn't add noticeable weight to my project and were otherwise trash. Plus it feels "authentic" to have gravel under your stone floors.

Might need to do this one again, that was a good terrain project.