ChaosGerbil

Nah, Hotwheels and Matchbox are way too small, at 1:64 scale. 1:36 and 1:48 are usually good matches. Trust me, my house is getting overrun by Hotwheels.

AV6 seems too low, lasguns glancing on a 3 and all. I'd say AV 8 or 9 for most, although it's kinda moot since they would most likely be terrain. That would be funny to let characters or small squads try to hotwire them and ride around.

Just be thankful you don't have to deal with Tyranids.

Hi folks,

I love adding to my terrain collection for fantasy and grim sci-fi. I wanted to share with you a few finds.

O scale train stuff and 1:48 scale model kits are usually very close to heroic scale (32mm?) models. When you paint them in the same style as everything else they blend right in. You can often get buildings or vehicle hulls to use as starting points for much cheaper than an official model. It won't match exactly to what your friends have... but that's the beauty of it, you get something originalish in the wargaming world and after modifications it is truly unique. A rhino is supposed to fit 10 marines so a 2-6 passenger vehicle could be a lot smaller, and the scale doesn't need to be exact. After all in the far future there will be all kinds of variants and you can justify almost any style showing up.

There are some toy cars that match the scale very closely, such as Tootsietoy from the 70s and 80s. Once in a while you can find a match at a thrift store, often for very cheap. Now you can slap radar dishes and gubbins on if you want, but some of them seem fine as is for a utilitarian civilian vehicle.

Wouldn't it be cool if your troops were taking cover behind the hood of a car? I like immersion in gaming and I think vehicles would add to the "lived in" feel of a battlefield.

At a certain point my primary objective changed from getting a good brush to getting them to fix their stupidity so they don't mess up other customers. Apparently the only way to get them to listen is to cost them time and money. GW ended up eating the cost of three brushes and two shipments, plus the time of the customer support staff. If that and the email chain doesn't get the attention of management I don't know what will. I feel a little bad for the waste on their part, but if they want to position themselves as a high end boutique company they need to have high standards enforced.

Update: They sent a third brush... it had lots of packing material, but still no plastic protector sleeve. It was in a plastic bag which was folded and then stuck into a small shipping mailer sleeve. As a result the bristles were bent. Facepalm.

While I can use the damaged brushes I still wanted to make a point at how dumb this all was. I sent them a slightly bitchy note, scolding them for incompetence and asking for money back. This was their response:

"A refund has been placed to your PayPal account in the amount of $7.60, which you should receive within 1-2 business days. In our initial response we had stated that this brush is not supplied with a sleeve, although I don't know the manufacturer's reasoning; the only brushes supplied with sleeves are the M Layer, M Shade, M Glaze, S Layer, S Base, and the XS Artificer Layer. I will be notifying the rep you had been working with of the damages on the third brush sent upon their return from vacation. In the meantime, I have forwarded this email chain to our Shipping Manager, UK Distribution, and our contact for the brush Manufacturer for review.

I apologize for the hassle, but please let me know if you have any questions.

[REDACTED]
Games Workshop
North America Customer Services"

(Sometimes it pays to complain!)

He's being overly diplomatic if you ask me, but that's the safe bet for his career. He can't come right out and call it a piece of dung without looking petty.

Pretre, you're The King of Likes because you consistently have the best posts on Ordo.

Only Fluger comes close. If only there were some way to settle who is cooler...

I am in the "rough on brushes" camp. A $20 brush is too big a risk considering how often I leave them with paint on the bristles or otherwise mess them up.

Since I'm also a packrat I have over a hundred brushes in two glasses on my desk, and another few dozen elsewhere. Many of these were cheapy craft store brushes. Mostly I use the raggedy ones for drybrushing, especially terrain and bases.

Yeah, Army Painter makes good stuff, and is cheaper. I am happy with their paint line too which has plenty of pigment like the old GW paints did.

From GW I ordered some paint and three of the new brushes. Two rushes were shipped with plastic protector sleeves, and the last one was wedged up against the box and totally bent, with no protector.  Now, shipping brushes without a .1 cent sleeve is a huge pet peeve of mine, so I emailed and asked for a replacement. I said it needs a sleeve in my email. This is what they sent as a replacement:

In case you can't tell, the brush is completely smooshed against the box and splayed out in every direction. I burst out laughing when I opened the box. The AOS pins were a nice, semi-ironic touch. 

I asked for a second replacement, and they wanted the picture as proof. They said they are going to take extra special care this time.
 

I don't waste anything, especially brushes, so I can drybrush with them or something. For $7 I expect something decent that comes to a reasonable point.

It seems like the simplest solution is to treat summoned units as normal units in every way,* except that they are not deployed at the start of the game but deployed during game play via a summoning ability.

*(counting against Warscrolls and Wounds and if you are using such house rules)

Don't forget the TSHFT Open, a Seattle tournament usually in January. It draws a lot of Oregon players.

Cool. One technique I plan to try is to paint a fiery core, then separately spray paint some black and then glue the black around the fire.

Cotton bunting (stuffing) is cheap and great for smoke. Use some watered down white glue and form it. Paint yellow and orange on the inner layer then black on the outside.

I really wish the whole chaos codex was like this, with rules for combined units in a mono force, plus a few undivided detachments.

This looks fun, but it will still suffer against top tier shooting and bikes.

No, in fact I have never played Mordheim at all. I did some research, lifted a lot of other people's mods, and gave it some thought. I'm an amateur game designer so this was good practice. Unbalanced rule sets irritate me, which is inspiration for trying to make improvements.

I live in Maple Valley, but I could probably play in Bellevue or Issaquah sometime. I am also feinding for Necromunda or other skirmish games.

One of the warbands I am making features Skaven slingers, to enforce using more balanced rules!

Does anyone know of any other problem areas in Mordheim to address?

Holy smokes! This is very exciting. In a way I'm really happy that they have their own vehicles, because if I get a Chimera or Leman Russ hull I have to desecrate it for the glory of chaos.

More cyborg bits are always welcome. This army is long past due.

Question, should I leave them Imperial looking, or go for a Dark Mechanicus look?

Thanks folks. I'll be there about 4:30 but won't have much time to hang out or go into Portland. I thought this might be a fun thread.

Hey this is a goofy, yet urgent request. We're picking something up in Vancouver and will likely be eating in the area. If anyone wants to meet to give me free miniatures or take a swing at me send me a PM. Not sure if it will work out logistically, but what the heck.

Any must - visit restaurants nearby?

The Chaos powers don't want utter destruction, they want to feed off of emotions. They have specific ways to advance their agendas and get their jollies. They thrive on conflict, not a void.

Caveat: I haven't kept up with the End Times plotline.

For a quick set, I use Gorilla super glue and a little bit of white Elmer's glue. It starts getting tacky right away. There are some good superglue activator sprays too.

I'm thinking it would be great for rough shapes of large creatures, then using green stuff and bits on top. Maybe scoring it with a razor or sanding it would help glue adhere. I almost always put some superglue down first she using sculpting putty (Gorilla brand, or Krazy brush-on).

Good to hear back. Those buildings look great. I'm a bit of a stickler for stuff being painted, or at least primed, but I will have to get past that. :)

Quick update: My human gang is just about done being modeled. I have 4 new intact buildings done or nearly so, ready to be primed.

I moved the optional house rules to its own thread. We don't have to alter the base rules if it is a deal breaker.

I can field other factions at a moment's notice, orks, skaven, chaos, undead for example.

My cousin just shared this, it looks very promising especially for terrain uses:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nMAd4FpXpy4&app=desktop

Overall I love it, but....

The price is way too high. Rar.

And...

I can't get over the riverdancing legs. You will see them too from now on.