Jump to content

valourunbound

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    454

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

 Content Type 

Posts posted by valourunbound

  1. Infernal Zoo Lists

    in Fantasy Battles (9th Age, WFB, etc.)

    Posted

    I'm in a pickle. I like the list that I brought to OFCC, but I feel like I need more spells, especially ones I can use while engaged in combat. If I get a big magic phase and I'm in combat, I might only be able to use two, and I don't like throwing 5 dice at spells. To that end, I moved some points around and picked up a Rod of Battle. However, I've also thought about Lightning Vambraces or dropping the Rakachit entirely for another Patriarch, who would have two spells and a Flail. I'l probably stick with Rod of Battle for this tournament at least, unless someone has a convincing argument otherwise. Also, I dropped the Stalker's Standard on the Brotherhood for the Flaming Standard. I hate Trolls.
      

    The Vermin Swarm
725 - Plague Patriarch, General, Occultism, Wizard Adept, Plague Flail, Plague Pendulum, Light Armor, Book of Arcane Mastery
355 - Chief, BSB, Heavy Armor, Shield, Basalt Infusion, Hero's Heart, Vermin Hulk Bodyguard
275 - Rakachit Machinist, Ratlock Pistols, Crown of the Wizard King, Rod of Battle

120 - 10 Footpads
120 - 10 Footpads
140 - 20 Giant Rats
300 - 20 Plague Brotherhood, FC, Flaming Standard
459 - 38 Rats-at-Arms, FC, Spears, Banner of the Endless Swarm

150 - Meat Grinder
238 - 12 Plague Disciples
90 - 2 Rat Swarms
485 - 4 Thunder Hulks, Champion, Globe Launcher

305 - Dreadmill
150 - 4 Jezails
150 - 4 Jezails
170 - Plague Catapult
265 - Lightning Cannon

    Unfortunately, I don't have any Abomination models, so I can't theme it up for the Zoo.

  7. Movement Trays

    in Fantasy Battles (9th Age, WFB, etc.)

    Posted

    3 minutes ago, TheBeninator said:

     what epoxy do you use? I need somthing better than superglue.

     

    On 8/15/2019 at 9:16 PM, valourunbound said:

    This is what I used for all my rats. I went through two phases: hot glue and epoxy.

    I guess I had poor link placement. Putting it at the beginning when nobody is going to click it probably was not wise.

    3 minutes ago, TheBeninator said:

    that 2v2 btw was at pgs during 8th edition. You and I vs. Terell and Brad. I brought only skink skirmishes, which basically just got in your way all game. That was good times

    Oh man that was a long time ago. Oh gosh was this with 10+ units of skirmishers? I can picture this madness. It brings me pain.

  10. Movement Trays

    in Fantasy Battles (9th Age, WFB, etc.)

    Posted

    6 hours ago, TheBeninator said:

    The problem is cutting a tin sheet to the proper dimensions. Even with proper "straight cut" tin snips, it is very hard to get a clean straight cut that does not leave small burs and dents in the metal. Although he burs would be less of a problem from your idea (though you have to deal with the burns in so much as they cause a tongue and groove joining not to fit correctly), you still have the problem of curling the metal. 

    Using steel shingles from Home Depot, I use snips to get a straight cut, then a ball peen hammer to flatten out the crinkles (typically on the flat shelf of a vice). Prime the whole tray black, no problem. My movement trays have plenty of issues, but wrinkled metal is not one of them.

    Fun fact, the shingles are 5" wide, so for all of us normal size armies, you only have to cut one dimension. This really helps with the straight lines.

     

    6 hours ago, TheBeninator said:

    Many moons ago I made a set of 10 metal sheets to run a skirmishing skink swarm (John I'm sure remembers that disastrous 2v2). It worked great for a crude setup and to just get models on the table, but eventually I moved away from that system. 

    Was this the one at WOW? I recall Plague Monks vs Saurus Warriors... Or another... I have a long history of disastrous 2v2s.

     

    6 hours ago, TheBeninator said:

    Another problem is using neodymium magnets and sheet metal will cause a LOT of magnetic attraction. This will typically cause your magnets to break out of the base, even when superglued and greestuff'ed in. You also have to be careful with models that are 1 footed, or are otherwise not adhered to the bases in a really robust manner, as breaking the model, or pulling it from the base is the second most common side effect. 

    This is what I used for all my rats. I went through two phases: hot glue and epoxy. You have two problems with using neodymium magnets. The first is that you have to use small ones so you can, you know, remove your models. This means there will be a gap if you super glue it to the bottom of the base. The second is the  strength of the magnets breaking things off. I used hot glue at first because it solved the first problem by acting as a spacer. However, after my first tournament I probably had 40 magnets (out of 200+ models) stacked up on my tray that had fallen off. At first I would just glue them back on. Hot glue is cheap after all. After a few years I got fed up with hot glue and started researching other solutions. I came across the plastic epoxy that I linked before. It is thick enough to space the magnet off the base and allow for better contact with the metal, and it is strong enough to not break off after a single use.

    I still have to repair a few models before each tournament, but the numbers are way down from before. Most of the broken ones end up being hot glue that I never replaced. For example, this week I glued six magnets. Two never had them, two were old hot glue and the last two were epoxy. 

    One suggestion that I've seen but never followed is to scratch up the magnet before gluing it. The theory is that this will help the epoxy to bond to the magnet better. I have had plenty of success without this. Unfortunately all of my metal scratching tools are.. metal... and the magnets are small. I try not to cut my fingers as much as possible, so I skipped that step.

    Last comment on the epoxy: it is decently expensive, but I have managed to do about 80% of my 300+ model army (as they break) and I've only used two tubes. The trick is to do as many models at once as possible so that you minimize the amount that dries on your mixing surface.

     

    2 hours ago, paxmiles said:

    As long as you aren't using galvanized steel sheet metal, you can just use a light duty torch to melt away the burrs/sharp edges. Really easy.

    Hmm. Looks like the 5"x8" steel shingles I get are galvanized. Maybe they have non-galvanized ones...

  15. Movement Trays

    in Fantasy Battles (9th Age, WFB, etc.)

    Posted

    Once upon a time my dad helped me out by making some wooden trays with a router. He had a jig setup so he got 99% of the material out and then you used a knife to nick out the corners.

    10 years later they have held up pretty well, though some have warped a bit. I got a router so I could try this out again but have yet to get around to it.

    I have also used Ben's method a couple times and was pretty happy with it. It definitely takes fewer tools than other methods so it's easier to get started.

  23. March to War III - March 2nd & 3rd @ Guardian Games

    in Fantasy Battles (9th Age, WFB, etc.)

    Posted

    On 2/5/2019 at 10:29 PM, Andrewgeddon said:

    policies
     

    Wow. I did not know that I could park across the street. That makes me 40% more likely to go to GG for something. Normally I wouldn't go unless I was walking in the area... (pretty rarely, but not never).

    Also, the water bottle policy is strange. I can't bring my own water? Or I have to leave it with the bartender... I understand the rule but I've never seen one like it before. I also don't get out much.

    • Haha 1
×
×
  • Create New...