Uselesswizard

Saturdays is the main 40k day at The Friendly Local Game Store here in Beaverton. We're usually there from 11am to 7 or 8pm. https://www.facebook.com/groups/tflgs40k/

I'm going to be bringing just about everything I've not touched in the past year. Will be looking for more Rogue Trade SM, Chaos SM, Malifaux, Warmachine Cryx & Menoth, and $$.

Sculpting scars with Green Stuff is a wonderfully simple way to add details to your miniatures. Even a small amount of sculpting can change the entire character of the final result. Make sure to keep your sculpting tools damp to prevent the Green Stuff from sticking. Working on Green Stuff with dry tools is almost impossible and not even close to worth the effort. Next video we're going over using contour putty to create a great looking corroded metal texture. Keep your eyes to your Subscribed feed! Thanks for watching! If you liked this video, please subscribe and like our channel. If you found the video useful, please share it with your friends! To keep up to date with everything Game Face Nation is up to. please sign up for our newsletter over at www.gamefacenation.com It'll be worth it, we promise! Until next time, get your game face on!

Yeah, that's one of the next tutorials I'll be doing. I'l be covering both the hairspray method, and the salt and water method. Both basically do the same thing, but there are apparent advantaged to the hairspray that makes it better.

Yes, I recommended HB lead as a starting point in the origional post. If you want to go softer then you can get pencils from the art or craft store. I would recommend B or 2B. I am going to be experimenting with using harder graphite to actually chip away at the paint when I use the pencil as well. Just to see what happens

Using a pencil to add weathering effects to your miniatures is a simple and easy way to enhance the look of your minis. Use the pencil to add chipping effects, scratch marks, or spots of worn away paint. The best kind of pencil to use is one with soft lead. In general terms that means a standard No. 2 pencil. In artist terms you want a pencil with lead that is rated between HB and 8B. Hard leads will most likely tear or literally scratch away the paint on your miniatures. Come to think of it, that might be kind of cool. I'll have to do some experimenting to see what that might look like. Next video we're going over using pigments to create an oxidized brass effect. Keep your eyes to your Subscribed feed! Thanks for watching! If you liked this video, please subscribe and like our channel. If you found the video useful, please share it with your friends! To keep up to date with everything Game Face Nation is up to. please sign up for our newsletter over at www.gamefacenation.com It'll be worth it, we promise! Until next time, get your game face on! "The Builder" by Kevin MacLeod are licensed under a CC Attribution 3.0. http://incompetech.com/music/royalty-free/index.html?isrc=USUAN1100875. Permissions beyond the scope of this license are available at http://incompetech.com/music/royalty-free/licenses/.

In this video we're using pigments as a wash for your miniatures. Washing with pigments gives you a massive level of control over the gradients of color that result. Dry pigments can be manipulated for an almost indefinite period of time whereas acrylic, watercolor, or oil washes will all dry eventually. Sure you can re-wet the watercolor or oils, but the once the acrylic is dry, it's done. Plus, they're cheap! I hop you enjoy the video and find something useful in it. Next video we're going over using graphite to add wear and tear to your miniatures! Keep your eyes to your Subscribed feed! Thanks for watching! If you liked this video, please subscribe and like our channel. If you found the video useful, please share it with your friends! To keep up to date with everything Game Face Nation is up to. please sign up for our newsletter over at www.gamefacenation.com It'll be worth it, we promise! Until next time, get your game face on!

Welcome back to the studio workshop! In this videos we're showing you a simple technique for creating great looking, yet fast blood effects for your miniatures. Tamiya paints are alcohol based acrylics, so be sure to use an older brush, or do a really good job of cleaning the one you're using for this technique. Personally I would recommend that you also use hair conditioner on the brush afterwords as well. There is the risk that the alcohol will dry out the natural oils in the brush hairs and those need to be restored. Otherwise your brush may quickly start to deteriorate. Next video we're going over using dry pigments in place of washes! Keep your eyes to your Subscribed feed! Thanks for watching! If you liked this video, please subscribe and like our channel. If you found the video useful, please share it with your friends! To keep up to date with everything Game Face Nation is up to. please sign up for our newsletter over at www.gamefacenation.com Until next time, get your game face on!

Welcome back to the Studio Workshop! In this video we're freehanding some hazard stripes. While difficult at times, freehanding patterns and details can be made much easier through careful planning. In this case I made sure to start each stripe in line with the teeth of the chainblade on one side and end each each stripe in line with a tooth that is one step closer to the base of the blade. I then skip one tooth and start the next stripe with the next tooth. If those teeth hadn't been there, then a ruler and a pencil would have been used instead. Next week we're learning how to paint basic blood effects! Keep your eyes to your Subscribed feed! Thanks for watching! If you liked this video, please subscribe and like our channel. If you found the video useful, please share it with your friends! To keep up to date with everything Game Face Nation is up to. please sign up for our newsletter over at www.gamefacenation.com It'll be worth it, we promise! Until next time, get your game face on!

You're very welcome! Thanks!

Welcome back to the Studio Workshop! This week we're going over how to drybrush a great looking brass color. Brass looks a great deal like gold at first, but comparing the two will usually show a slight touch of red color in standard gold. Brass also oxidizes much like copper or iron while at best gold grows slightly dull. Keep your eyes out for a couple of videos in the near future on adding the fantastically colored oxidization that develops on brass. Next week we're learning how to freehand hazard stripes, so keep your eyes to your Subscribed feed! Thanks for watching! If you liked this video, please subscribe and like our channel. If you found the video useful, please share it with your friends! To keep up to date with everything Game Face Nation is up to. please sign up for our newsletter over at www.gamefacenation.com It'll be worth it, we promise! Until next time, get your game face on!

Let us know how the Rosemary and Co brushes work out. I'm not a big fan of the short bristles on the W&N S7 miniature line, but I'd like to know how they compare to the Rosemary.

I've been hanging out there for the past few weeks, and I've got to say that right now it's the only game store that I make sure to drop in to every time I'm near by. I'm really enjoying my time there and I got to play 40k for the first time in almost a year last Saturday. It was a blast, and I'm looking forward to many more days and evenings spent there.

Welcome back to the Studio Workshop! This week we're showing you how to add some fantastic looking rivets to your models. We first encountered this idea on the Dakkadakka forums (sadly, we can't remember who it was.) and since then we've seen this technique used all over the internet in project after project. Based around simple glass spheres used in scrapbooking, this technique is full of possibilities. The rivets could be for riveted armor (DIY Mk6 Space Marine shoulder pads ;-)), icons made from rivets, rivet-like buttons on a coat or leather armor, etc, etc. Whatever you end up doing with them they're sure to add a little extra something to your minis. Next week we're learning how to drybrush brass so keep your eyes to your Subscribed feed! Thanks for watching! If you liked this video, please subscribe and like our channel. If you found the video useful, please share it with your friends! To keep up to date with everything Game Face Nation is up to. please sign up for our newsletter over at www.gamefacenation.com It'll be worth it, we promise! Until next time, get your game face on!

Noted, thanks for the feedback!

Wow, that looks fantastic! Great job.

Welcome back to the Studio Workshop! This week we're showing you another way of highlighting your miniatures, especially if they are mostly one color. Drybrushing was once the be all, end all technique back when 40k was first getting off the ground. In more recent years it's started to fall by the way side as more techniques such as layering, glazing, and zenithal highlighting have come to the fore. Despite this we believe that in certain situations, drybrushing is still a great skill to have in your toolbox. Especially if you're more interested in getting your models done as quickly as possible rather than taking your time to make each one a masterpiece. Thanks for watching! If you liked this video, please subscribe and like our channel. If you found the video useful, please share it with your friends! Our next video covers a fantastic technique for adding rounded rivets to your models, just like those found on most GW minisa and tanks! So watch out next Monday for our next tutorial. To keep up to date with everything Game Face Nation is up to. please sign up for our newsletter over at www.gamefacenation.com It'll be worth it, we promise! Until next time, get your game face on!

Welcome back to the Studio Workshop! In this week's video we're continuing to show you more ways to add rust effects to your miniatures. This time around we're not using any kind of pigments or other fancy materials. That's right we're just using paint. This technique is a fast and easy way to add rust or pitting effects to flat metal surfaces like armor or metal walls. One limitation of this technique to note is that it's not very good at getting deep down into details, so be sure to keep that in mind when deciding which techniques to use for your rust effects. Thanks for watching! If you liked this video, please subscribe and like our channel. If you found the video useful, please share it with your friends! Next week we're doing another highlighting video. This time we're learning how to highlight with drybrushing! So keep your eyes peeled! To keep up to date with everything Game Face Nation is up to. please sign up for our newsletter over at www.gamefacenation.com It'll be worth it, we promise! Until next time, get your game face on!

You're welcome!

Welcome back to the Studio Workshop! This week we're helping you add a little realism to your miniatures by showing you how to add a chipped paint effect. Ironically, you're going to want to make sure to use a paint brush that has a nice and well shaped tip as you still want to be precise when adding the details to this chipping effect. This technique will also give you something else to do with all that blister and pluck foam you've got laying around! In even the most laid back theaters of war (is that even a thing?) armor, tanks, guns, construction gear, etc will all get dirty and chipped up. Using this chipped paint technique you'll be able show everyone that your army doesn't just stand around looking pretty on the parade ground. Thanks for watching! If you liked this video, please subscribe and like our channel. If you found the video useful, please share it with your friends! To keep up to date with everything Game Face Nation is up to. please sign up for our newsletter over at www.gamefacenation.com It'll be worth it, we promise! Until next time, get your game face on!

Welcome back to the Studio Workshop! This week we're back to show you a great method of doing rust effects on your miniatures. This is only one of several methods of painting rust effects and we'll be posting several more covering other methods and styles in the coming weeks. This technique is great because the dry pigments result in a very nice textured rust effect on your miniature which looks very convincing even upon close inspection. It's recommend that you do this step after you've done your final varnish as varnishing over these pigments will rob the rust effect of any texture it had. Thanks for watching! If you liked this video, please subscribe and like our channel. If you found the video useful, please share it with your friends! To keep up to date with everything Game Face Nation is up to. please sign up for our newsletter over at www.gamefacenation.com It'll be worth it, we promise! Until next time, get your game face on!

Yes sir they do, although if you were going to paint over the watercolors, I'd use something like dulcoat instead of gloss. That way the watercolors are protected and you're not trying to paint onto a perfectly smooth surface. Your paint works best if it has a rougher surface (from a microscopic point of view) to grab onto.

P3 paint is a pretty good value for your money as well. They thin down extremely well, have fantastic color strength, and are pretty durable when dry. Craft paints are difficult to work with unless you're using a .3 mm or larger tip, then they're doable. You just have to thing them down a ton with an acrylic medium and then apply really thin coats. Personally I wouldn't use Windex unless you've got a respirator or some really good ventilation as it's actually pretty bad to breath. Use an airbrush medium or distilled water instead.

Welcome back to the Studio Workshop! This week we're showing you how to use watercolor paints as washes. Just like with oil paints, watercolor washes give you an insane amount of control over the end result of your wash. The advantage of watercolors is that you can use plain water to clean up rather than having to use mineral spirits. Just remember that less is better when washing just in case you over do it. Always use less than you think you will need. You can always ad more later. Thanks for watching! If you liked this video, please subscribe and like our channel. If you found the video useful, please share it with your friends! Until next time, get your game face on!

Do not prime your minis before hand, or at least have a couple of them unprimed. Meg will be going over proper priming during class (believe me, we all do it wrong) I will be bringing all of my p3 paints and purchasing what paints I don't have from the p3 line at GG.