MexicanNinja

Ok, you may want to fix the wording, in the future.  Having a unit in the woods is not the same things as having a unit holding the woods.

I am seriously trying to get 30 re-rolls!

I would think not, because he doesnt mention the obstacle being destroyed in the description. 

I know, but it should.  If a giant, a steam tank, or a cannon ball can get rid of an obstacle, I think it would be cool if the obstacle could be destroyed.  If not, then your opponent could just sit behind an obstacle, let the unit keep smashing into it and then charge them or claim the tower.  That's a game changing tactic.

CAN I TRY?

 

Raindog is very clear in his rulings. Doing things "outside" the box and coming up with whacky scenarios seem to be the thing at the tournaments Ive attended. It has to be simple and clear giving its craziness.

 

*remember our skaven/warriors game where nobody even fought?  

 

ANY UNIT/MODEL can hold a forest. 

If you have a unit in a forest at the end of the turn you get 1pt. 

If you have a unit in a forest at the end of the game you get 3pts

 

If both players have units in the forest, BOTH are awarded points. 

I asked the question because the ruling is NOT clear.  It states that you must HOLD the forest to get the point(s) not be in the forest.  Also, I asked the first question becasue I'm not going to rush a unit in the woods if they can't hold it.

I've played in many events with scenarios and secondary victory points.  It's good to ask questions on things not clear so you know what you need to do, or not do, prior to selecting an army for the scenario(s).

I have the following for cash or trade.  I won't piecemeal:

12 Dark Angel bikes from Dark Vengeance (assembled not primed)

3 Attack Bikes w/HB or MM option (primed and heavy weapons for sidecar not assembled)

If you're interested send a PM.  Again, this is an all or nothing deal.

I have the following I want to get rid of.  I'm not looking to piece meal:

Lord on wolf w/TH SH (painted)

Lord on wolf w/TH SH (primed)

Runepriest (painted)

2 Grey Huners w/melta (primed)

4 Grey Huners w/plasma gun (primed)

3 Grey Hunters w/powerfist (primed)

4 Grey Hunters w/mark of wulfen (primed)

Grey Hunter with Wolf Standard (primed)

21 Grey Hunters w/a mix of boltguns, bolt pistols, melee weapons (primed)

3 Long Fang Leaders (primed)

12 Long Fangs w/missile launcher (primed)

2 Land Speeders w/missiles and heavy bolters (assembled, not primed, missing flying stem and base)

3 Drop Pods (assembled, not primed)

4ish Wolf Scouts (primed)

6ish extra Grey Hunters (primed)

Extra Bits

Army Book

All models have cork basing for ice effects

If you are interested in this, send me a PM.  Again, I will not piecemeal this.  It's an all or nothing sell/trade.

Could someone start the banner during week 1, finish during week 4, and then eran the best painted standard week 7?

If a tower hits an obstacle, does the tower destroy the obstacle?

If you have a unit/model pick up an item and you roll for something they are unable to use can that unit/model hold on to it for when someone joins the unit wo may use it?

Can any unit/model hold a forest?  If you and your opponent both have units in the forest is it contested and therefore no one claims it?

You're right, but then when you play outside of the house rule you need to re-adjust.  It's easier to just roll with the rules in the book.  It's really not that big of a deal.  I played Bret's for like 3 years and just had to roll with it.

Yeah, it's a small price to pay for a 1+

It's just outdated books.  That is all.  When the bret book was written almost all bsb's couldn't have a shield.  They just haven't addressed that certain issue.  It's really not that big of a deal.

I used to run a 5 paladin bret list.

Yes, magic shields are ok.  They just can't take the normal shield.

I'd rather sell them and purchase fantasy models.

I hope I can give you a challenge.  My army was built around 5 specific scenarios and not just pichted battles.

I'm actually losing interest in 40k fast.  I'm thinking about selling off everything I own for 40k.  I just don't have any desire to play 40k any longer.

Pistoliers beat dark riders in a shoot out.  When I played Empire I would just take a cannon and place it on the opposite side of my main deployment.  That way, whatever unit they sent towards it was usually out of the game for a turn or 2 before I had to worry about it.  You want to know what is the best war machine protector for Empire:

CAPTAIN ON A PEGASUS!

oh, now i need itunes....great.

where did you find the podcast?

Looks like I better get a list in by Friday then!

Well, like I stated in my original post.  That's the list I'm building.  The lord most definately stays.  I don't want or need shields on my long beards, as they are the counter charging units for the iron breakers, I don't want warriors because they have crap stats, and I don't want quarrelers because they are only BS3.  Thanks for the advice, but I'm not looking for mobility at all.  I also have a solid unit in the 30 iron breakers.  This army isn't going to be rushing forward.

Run units of 10 handgunners, they aren't worth the points to attempt to protect war machines.  They don't hit often and only have 24" range.

Your characters have some illegal gear. Great weapons can't be rune-inscribed so you'll have to decide one or the other.

 

In lighter news, the Rune of Forging doesn't specify that you only re-roll one artillery die. It says you can re-roll the dice "whenever a misfire is rolled" so you don't actually need the Engineer for that. He'll still help with his BS and entrenching and whatnot but I don't think he's worth his points, considering he's kind of redundant to what you can already do with engineering runes.

 

At any rate, looks like a pretty solid list on paper (considering I haven't actually had a chance to play with the new book). I keep trying how to figure out how to fit Ironbreakers into a list. Hammerers are just so killy that they are hard to refuse, but fitting both into one list leaves too few points for war machines.

Yup, I missed the top section that says apply them to the hand weapon.  Time to rethink the weapon build.  I am going with the engineer because I can still re-roll a roll of 2 or 4 to try to get more shots.  I went with iron breakers over hammers for survivability.  I can use the longbeards to counter charge.  It will be extremely hard to shift stubborn 10 with a 3+/5+ parry.