scottshoemaker

Lost my Badger paint tip, $30. 1/3 of what I paid for the brush...

You need to play me more, we'll get that win/loss record turned around.

I really hope Orks get their own Powers. Boom! It also seems like the mission changes make this edition more of a wargame and less of a board game. Hopefully more chances for an underdog to pull out a win.

via their Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=751921898172798&id=159776737387320

Current state of the painting: I was on the fence about adding more contrast to the rivets, but lazy wins out. I still have lots to do on my orks so I need to strike a balance.

These decisions aren't happening in a vacuum. Look at 40k compared to other scifi mini games. What can GW bring to the table that other companies can't? Crazy big models to support "mini-apocalypse" types of games. We all agree there are better skirmish level games out there, so they are altering their game to create a niche that only they can fill. Not a bad idea really. Seems like a similar move to what they did with Fantasy to me...

Pics, and it happened.

This whole thing isn't new. Non chaos armies with daemons was a mechanic for missions in the old Daemonhunters codex from 4th. I just reread this in old WhiteDwarf while taking an especially long dump.

It's back... http://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Brush-2020-2F-Gravity-Airbrush/dp/B000BROVIO/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1399497374&sr=8-7&keywords=badger+hose

This is the most entertaining thread I've read on the forum for quite a while.

Seems very nontournament to me. Which I like.

Oh snap. Welcome back Rogue Trader, we've missed you.

I'm a newb, I can share what I've found.

I'll be there with my test pieces if anyone is interested.

I went with a pigment method for this rust test. I put down a coat of Typhus corrosion. I then mixed 1:1 acrylic matt varnish and airbrush thinner as a binder and added dark rust pigment till I got a thick paint, or thin paste. This I dappled on the Corrosion with on old brush. I then mixed up as second batch with a lighter color and when right over the previous rust. I then sealed the whole deal in two coats of matt varnish. A bit much, but absolutley better. On a side note I wanted to see if I could put on a layer of dust on. Here's my stuff: Mixed so it coats the side of the cup I masked the top of the piece: I put the spray on with nice even light coats, keeping it heavier on the bottom. Not bad at all and it doesn't kill the rust effect. I'll be at Ordo tommorrow night if anyone wants to see the test pieces.

So I redid the whole deal to get a better idea of this rust stuff: The rust itself took two coats of the acid to get this effect. I think it's ok for a model, but not a gaming piece. I could add powders to it and weather it more, but honestly that's more effort than I want to put in for this project. I'll just go with a simpler solution.

I wanted easy rust, so I picked up this off Amazon for $12: Paint on the metal paint, let dry, then paint on the acid glaze and wait. Easy enough... The metal paint goes on about a mid tone grey, hard to see in these pics but nothing exciting Here's the acid glaze, just looks wet... Next morning the change was slight, so I hit it again and got this: I don't like it on the surface panel, but it's not bad in the cracks on the lower part. I think the trick is put the paint and the glaze on relativitly thick. I'll try a combined arms approach today and see how it looks with all the ideas combined.

In other news NHL exhibition hockey on the second plane of hell tickets on sale now!

http://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Brush-2020-2F-Gravity-Airbrush/dp/B000BROVIO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1399067937&sr=8-1&keywords=sotar+2020+airbrush

I'm currently keeping my focus on achieving a good, crusty red with weathering for my orks. I'm sure I'll check out other things as I go. Here the result of spraying on this formula: 4 parts water 1 part floor polish 5 parts brown wash It's just ok, but too subtle for what I want to do. I think what I need to is a tone base (grey shades only) Preshade around rivets and panel lines with wash and micron pen. Then put down the Typhus Corrosion on key edges and places I want the paint to lift. I'll then put down some chipping medium on the Corrosion. Coat the whole thing in red and chip the paint. Then I'll figure which rust looks best. in the chipped areas. In between the stages I'll seal with "Future" By the way I picked up the plastic turntable seen in the pic so I can spin my piece around with touching it. $4 at TAP in PDX.

For those of us that prefer smaller games (1500 thereabouts) it's not a big deal, plus it's still up to the player if they want to use it.

Sideboard rumors: http://natfka.blogspot.com/2014/05/major-changes-to-40k-coming-sideboards.html#more Which I have to say I really like. It gives my the option to put some flexibility in my army and for a "blind" type of game, like a pickup game or a tourny gives my the option to have a broader toolkit. Rather than trying to figure out an all comers list and getting steamrolled two players can have hard counters for each other. As a casual player I want the option of having more models as options anyway.

Only the all resin ones, not the hybrid resin/plastic Anyone?

Right. I sealed up the model with floor polish to protect it and used some GW Typhus Corrosion around the base. The Corrosion Paint is wicked cool as it dries rough and gritty. I think it's great on it's own or as a base for further weathering. Holy crap, the floor polish is super glossy. So much so that it worried me. Here's what I used: Straight through the airbrush. $6. On Dr Faust's Painting Clinic he made Magic Wash Quick Shade with it. That's gonna get tested. Anyway I matte finished the piece and did a graphite rub on the edges. An interesting effect but not right for orks. Chaos? I buffed the graphite on with a makeup sponge, and used the soft pencil to pickup the edges I've got some rust effects stuff coming, I think the rust as a base with the graphite on wear spots like handles would look better.