scottshoemaker Posted April 20, 2014 Report Share Posted April 20, 2014 So I tried the salt chipping technique. It works, but the rust blends too well for a gaming model. There's no contrast. I'm thinking about a thin rust wash over the red with some rust pigment. Has anyone done anything like this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
splinx Posted April 20, 2014 Report Share Posted April 20, 2014 Yah I tried a rust effect over some colors in the week. http://i1093.photobucket.com/albums/i426/Splinx69/40154ca8a758aff148e14353201728ba_zpsc9381a04.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brick Bungalow Posted April 23, 2014 Report Share Posted April 23, 2014 One option is to combine rust with verdigris. Combine speckles of orange and brown with traces of blue and green to isolate those areas from the red. If you don't want to do that I'd try to find a shade for the rust that is as far from your red color as possible while still plausibly representing rust. Both in terms of hue and value. A graded color wheel is useful. Generally if you can get at least a fourth way around the wheel in either direction as well as changing the shade several steps you should have sufficient contrast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottshoemaker Posted April 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2014 I'm going to try worn metal edges and a pigment wash. The dark edge of the metal should provide the contrast I'm looking for. I'm not going for subtle, but good from the tabletop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottshoemaker Posted April 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2014 Have you tried Ryza Rust from GW? I've seen it used on red Ork Trukks and it worked pretty darn well. Yup, . Don't like it on my red. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunnerson Posted April 24, 2014 Report Share Posted April 24, 2014 Yup, . Don't like it on my red. I am with you on this one. I tried the stuff on a couple of test pieces and hated it. I liked it more after some washes of Argax Earthshade/Devlin Mud or what ever GW calls it these days. I had an idea of using VGC dark flesh to create a rust effect on red but have not gotten around to it yet. I do like using the Flames of War rust pigment mixed with some Vallejo medium and a super thin 2:1-3:1 mix of VGC dark flesh or Heavy Orange. If you don't have VGC it is very similar to Squig Orange by Citadel. possible threadjacking in progress.... On a different note, my airbrush was good but cheap, purchased at an estate sale about 4 years ago. Pasche Dual action and a Badger air compressor. Sadly the poor thing is getting to the point that I have to completely break it down and rebuild it after every use and it still has issues with clogging and shooting a steady flow. I tried running a q-tip with alcohol through the paint feed and through the spray barrel with no real improvement to flow. I have to go nearly 1:1 or 2:1 paint to water and still getting "clumpy pulses". Paint essentially comes out as colored water(fine for a wash) unless I open it up all the way. When its open all the way I can shoot a heavy enough mix to give a "watery" but smooth base coat but it still has the "clumpy pulses". As a result I am not trying to do anything elaborate with the air brush as of late. Id like to find a new brush and compressor that has an air pressure regulator on it. I don't have a large wallet so performance to cost on the package would be an important consideration. Any suggestions would be helpful! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Torg Posted April 24, 2014 Report Share Posted April 24, 2014 just tossing this in here… have you tried the FW powders? or any powders for that matter for the rust? I have been known to use makeup at times myself if i just can't seem to find the right color. -d Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunnerson Posted April 24, 2014 Report Share Posted April 24, 2014 I have never tried the Forge World or the Vallejo. I have tried Flames of war and Tamiyo. Tamiyo is okay but I refer the FoW ones. When I use these up or need a different color I plan to get either Vallejo or Secret Weapon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottshoemaker Posted April 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2014 Id like to find a new brush and compressor that has an air pressure regulator on it. I don't have a large wallet so performance to cost on the package would be an important consideration. Any suggestions would be helpful! No pressure regulator on compressor? As far as cheap look at TCP global on Amazon. I spent about $40, but it's definatly a learning brush. I'll need to upgrade after a while. Try lubing the needle. I picked up some Redgab Needle Juice by Badger. It's not a miracle but it does help the paint not stick to the needle. The other thing is try not using water as your thinning agent. I'm using Vallejo Airbrush thinner and getting better performance. It's essentially the Vallejo Air paint with no pigments, but the bonding agents are still in there. Works good for thinning washes too. I found if I don't thin the washes they act as a glaze. Once I figure out how I'll create and post a video. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chappy Posted April 24, 2014 Report Share Posted April 24, 2014 Testors acrylic thinner (green bottle) is the best I have found. Also, I recommend Iwata Medea. They are expensive, but you get what you pay for. I have been abusing mine for 2+ years now and it runs like a champ. YMMV. As far as rusty stuff (back on topic), after you get the color red you want, gloss coat your model. No......seriously. Then mix rust pigment with burnt umber oil paint and a little bit of white spirits. (Thinner) Flick onto model with stiff brush. When sufficiently coated, put pure thinner into your airbrush and diffuse the rust spots. Not TOO much but you'll get the gist soon enough. After wards you can streak the oil and rust with a thinner dampened brush. Then dull coat your model when finished. Do this in a ventilated area or you will kill braincells BTW. If you want any help in person, let me know and we can do a workshop up at WOW to get the technique you are looking for. Hope this helps. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunnerson Posted April 24, 2014 Report Share Posted April 24, 2014 No pressure regulator on compressor? As far as cheap look at TCP global on Amazon. I spent about $40, but it's definatly a learning brush. I'll need to upgrade after a while. Try lubing the needle. I picked up some Redgab Needle Juice by Badger. It's not a miracle but it does help the paint not stick to the needle. The other thing is try not using water as your thinning agent. I'm using Vallejo Airbrush thinner and getting better performance. It's essentially the Vallejo Air paint with no pigments, but the bonding agents are still in there. Works good for thinning washes too. I found if I don't thin the washes they act as a glaze. Once I figure out how I'll create and post a video. You got it, Ive been using this thing with surprising success with no pressure regulator. The only airflow control I have comes from the brush itself. Pressure to the trigger activates airflow and paint transfer pulling the trigger back increases the strength. I will have to look at the airbrush thinner as I had previously been mixing with Golden Airbrush Medium. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottshoemaker Posted April 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2014 By a $15 regulator with moisture trap at harbor freight. Your spattering will decrease. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justjokin Posted April 24, 2014 Report Share Posted April 24, 2014 Testors acrylic thinner (green bottle) is the best I have found. Also, I recommend Iwata Medea. They are expensive, but you get what you pay for. I have been abusing mine for 2+ years now and it runs like a champ. YMMV. As far as rusty stuff (back on topic), after you get the color red you want, gloss coat your model. No......seriously. Then mix rust pigment with burnt umber oil paint and a little bit of white spirits. (Thinner) Flick onto model with stiff brush. When sufficiently coated, put pure thinner into your airbrush and diffuse the rust spots. Not TOO much but you'll get the gist soon enough. After wards you can streak the oil and rust with a thinner dampened brush. Then dull coat your model when finished. Do this in a ventilated area or you will kill braincells BTW. If you want any help in person, let me know and we can do a workshop up at WOW to get the technique you are looking for. Hope this helps. Way to drop some knowledge Chappy! I love the Testors thinner, and I pick up a bottle of it every time I find it. BridgeTown usually it if I remember correctly. I also have great success gloss/oil wash technique, I used it for all of the black lining on my Tau. I can really see where it would work for this as well. I love the idea of the workshop, I'd be there! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chappy Posted April 24, 2014 Report Share Posted April 24, 2014 Just helping out where I can bro. :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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