ChaosGerbil

For a minimum of only $6 you can get a pile of PC games, including Space Hulk, Warhammer Quest, Dawn of War 2 Retribution, and Talisman. You can give all or most of the fee to charity. https://www.humblebundle.com/weekly (sorry if posting this here as well as PC games is forbidden)

For a minimum of $6 you can get a pile of PC games, including Space Hulk, Warhammer Quest, Dawn of War 2 Retribution, and Talisman. You can give all or most of the fee to charity. https://www.humblebundle.com/weekly

Yeah about time you showed up!

I'm not saying to drybrush, it's called overbrushing, similar technique but with a smaller brush and more paint loaded up. Here's my go-to method if I'm taking more time: Prime black Paint a "base" brown over the whole face, leaving a little black at the edges if possible Heavy overbrush of "layer" flesh tone, leaving some brown in recesses Wash Light overbrush of flesh tone mixed with white on nose, forehead, cheeks, chin Touchups and final details Faces don't leave a lot of room for standard wet blending, so I don't reccommend it unless you are experienced and doing a character. That being said, a lot of times I will do overbrushing when the layer beneath is still a bit wet.

Ahem, this is not a cruel joke. Someone already pranked Fluger about this, so I posted a follow up.

Congrats Fluger! Full story here

Try using just a little tiny bit of paint on the brush, almost to the point of drybrushing. Let the high edges of the miniature help you. Sometimes you have to correct with the base tone.

Now I love painting skin, but I hear a lot of people hate it. What's the problem? Seriously, it can be as simple as throwing on a flesh tone straight from the bottle and a flesh wash. I usually do a quick overbrush highlight of the base tone + a little white too. Darker skin tones are a bit harder to make pop and show good contrast. I often add a little red or yellow to the mix for the raised areas, to give some warmth. Green Ork skin is similar, just with different shades and extra yellow tones in the highlights. Daemon and mutant skin can be really fun, combining a red or purple wash with yellow or orange highlights gives a cool effect. If anyone needs pointers I would be glad to help. Reikland Fleshshade

I'm game for this. Make an offer between 1 and 3 times the cost of the minis, and I'll paint a decent, good, or great paintjob accordingly. You cover shipping, I cover materials.

Yeah keep the spirit alive. I'm more interested in fantasy models for dungeon crawls and skirmishes than pitched battles, but a whole genre shouldn't die out. You square basers have your thing and you shouldn't let it die.

Last weekend the Seattle wargaming tourny TSHFT happened. There were over 60 players for 40k and 0 for Fantasy 8th. They are switching over to Warmachine. Kinda sad. Smooth move GW.

$4 each on Amazon. I hope someone from the club buys the lot of them.

Never had a problem priming MDF. I usually use $4 Rustoleum 2x coverage flat black primer. A word of warning on glue, especially for gluing sand or flock down. While not nearly as prone to it as cardboard, a large area of white glue can warp the base board and cause it to curl up a little, enough so it isn't flush with the table. My solution is to use weights like full soda cans to press down on a few key areas. Other people put glue on the other side to try to cancel out the bending, I have not had luck with that. On gluing in general, here's my go-to method. Put a thin layer of superglue down on either side (either Gorilla brand or Krazy brush on) and then if there is any gap put a small peice of green stuff or dab of white glue in the middle. Press down firmly. With white glue you don't have to press down as long as for superglue alone, the white glue's moisture accelerates the setting of the superglue and the whole thing becomes tacky instead of slippery. Use a scrap, or a tool to wipe away excess. Another trick is Insta-Set accelerator. Using these methods has helped me with dozens of terrain pieces and thousands of conversions. This will work fine for MDF. Admittedly for terrain I enjoy the fun of hot gluing for fast results, but then I reinforce with white glue and sand so a hot day doesn't wipe out any work. Hot glue can look really amateur if you're not careful.

Weapons: 2014 Hot Wheels HW CITY Turbo Turret 57/250 (Black Version) 2010 Hot Wheels ~Battle~ Sting Rod 4/4 (Green Version) 2014 Hot Wheels HW CITY Sting Rod II 55/250 (Red Version)(Int. Card) No weapons, wasteland look: 1997 Hot Wheels ~Rockin' Rods~ Twang Thang 1/4 2008 Hot Wheels Roll Cage Col. #057 (Black Version) 2009 Hot Wheels Straight Pipes Col. #132 (Blue Version)

Rawr, I killed another thread. Your silence is deafening. It says, "Chaosgerbil, those cars are just alright. They need more armor plates, more comically oversized rivets, more battering rams, more spikes, more crew. More FLAIR." Fine, I'm working on it! Also, I found some Hot Wheels that are already armored and have weapons. I can post a list of the ones I bought on ebay, each under $2.

Ah, wish this was going on in my area. You might find this house rules discussion of interest: ​http://www.ordofanaticus.com/index.php?/topic/24108-proposed-mordheim-house-rules/

Just throwing this out there, I aspire to host my own war porch at my house in Maple Valley. I have a stack of board games, a legion of minis, and plenty of terrain. I paint or model almost every day, and have lots of supplies, so we can do a craft day. I'm currently off work to better watch our toddler, so I am generally flexible but might have to watch the rugrat while we hang out. I have been known to cook for guests as well.

I haven't played Fantasy for 20 years, but I have a huge Chaos army, a full Wood Elf army, and units of Skaven, Empire, Orcs, Dark Elves, Undead, and Dwarves. Unlike my 40k horde most of my Fantasy stuff is not fully painted, but that could change real fast if I start playing. I can host in Maple Valley, and possibly make it to Heroic Knight sometime. Mordheim sounds the most promising. I am also working on fantasy scenery and monsters, in hopes of a dungeon crawl campaign.

Even if real, this will not balance AOS. It will be like the old comp systems being gamed.

Progress so far. Think they need more detail? Scale shot: Wannabes with no work done: War rig: C&C welcome, including C+C Music factory.

Inspiration... Anyone have strong opinions on how many guns to mount? I noticed the majority of Sherbert's had no firearms, almost all of mine do. I'm also magnetizing some hardpoints just for fun. I'll try and take pictures tomorrow.

Sorry, still no pics yet but I have an update. I have over 20 cars finished, although I will probably go back and add extra rivets, blades, armor, and bits to them. So I got this from a facebook group called Post Apocalypse Game Cars, someone took 1/72 scale Native Americans and converted them to War Boys. I got some myself on Ebay, and shaved several bald with a razor blade. Here's what the box looks like:

Sweet I have a dozen cars close to modeling completion. Stay tuned. Hint: More dakka

Hmmm, not sure whether to curse you or thank you... I caught the bug. You just hijacked all my other modeling projects. My toddler is now into Hotwheels / Matchbox cars, and I just gave him my old cars from when I was a boy, and we got free ones from family so there is a good selection. I also have some cars coming off Ebay. FYI Hotwheels are usually $1 new at a lot of places, unless you are going for a movie tie in one and then they are $4. So fr I have five cars with guns and little other work done, and several more waiting to be started. I'll post some pics once I complete some conversions. I doubt I'll ever get to play, but I have always loved post-apoc and Mad Max, and the new MM movie was incredibly good. Thanks Sherbert, for all the ideas and cool pictures.