ChaosGerbil

Plastic is better for undead conversions since you can add gaping wounds easily with a razor blade. Exposed bone can be added by cutting a hole then using green stuff. A lot of it comes down to the paint job, using colors like grey, green, yellow, white, and bone. I like extra gore, tamiya clear red or GW technical blood. I like to put the "theater blood" on places like mouths and hands.

If you want to go the cheap route, get a cheapo plastic farm animal pig, cut off the head and neck, and stick it on a plastic GW Ogre. Add horns. The ogres are fatter than most minotaur models. You'll need green stuff.

My attempt to fix Mordheim! Feedback is encouraged. New rules: Offhand weapons are -1 to hit Two hand weapons strike at Initiative -1 on the charge After the first round of combat, tied Initiative warriors swing simultaneously If the roll to hit first is tied, tied Initiative warriors swing simultaneously Giving up a turn shooting reloads all weapons, but pistols do not reload automatically on their own Warriors affected by Stupidity can attack back in combat, but only one attack at Initiative 1 Warriors affected by Stupidity can take an Initiative test to avoid falls Nurgle's rot does not spread to other warriors Wyrdstone selling chart is amended to be more consistent Elves wear panties Armor saves: Str 4- base save Str 5 -1 Save Str 6 -2 Save Str 7+ -3 Save Equipment changes: Sling: Str 2, +1 enemy save Shield: +1 save vs. ranged, +2 save vs. melee attacks Light armor: 15 GC Heavy armor: 30 GC, no move penalty Blackpowder weapons have a bonus -1 Save modifier. On a roll of 1 to hit, the weapon jams and cannot be used that battle. New skills: Combat / Dual wielding: Ignore offhand penalty Combat / Shield expert: +2 save vs. ranged or melee Combat / Armor expert: +1 save in melee combat when wearing armor and not using a shield Shooting / Gun expert: Blackpowder weapons never jam Academic / Healer: If the warrior did not go out of action, they allow one an out of action Hero to reroll on the wounds chart, and pick the best result. Alternatively, they can give one henchman a +1 on the roll to see if they die. Strength / Grapple: Instead of attacking in combat, at Initiative 1, you and a target in base contact each roll a die and add their respective Strength. If you roll higher than the target, move the target up to half your Strength value in inches. The target must take an Initiative test or be knocked down.

I would be cool with -1 for the offhand weapon, but not -1 to both attacks. I have my warband mostly assembled. I could also throw together skaven, Orcs, or chaos from existing models. Empire Free Company is back in stock on the GW website! Maybe I will work on terrain tonight. Mox boarding house is viable most likely.

Wow that is an amazing collection. I wish I had the money for it. Lots of good conversion ideas there.

After reading some forums, I think we should set a few ground rules for the campaign. For example, slings are completely overpowered for two gold. I think they should be changed to STR 2, +1 to saves, and a shorter range. Axes aren't very viable compared to maces and clubs. Shields should be more like +2 to your save. There shouldn't be a penalty for heavy armor plus a shield. Nurgle's Rot on Carnival of Chaos sounds too powerful. Stupidity is incredibly punishing and should be toned down. The Shadow Elves are apparently broken. When tied for initiative, if you roll the same to go first attacks should be simultaneous. I've never played Mordheim, but been around enough long enough to recognize imbalance when I see it. I'll probably be playing a Merc band as my primary so maybe these issues won't come up.

I just put some layers of GW paint down and eventually the tackiness went away.

http://www.coreheim.com/ Hi I was looking for Mordheim rules and stumbled across this fan edit. It promises to be simpler, cleaner, and less random than the core rules. Does anyone have experience with this system, or comments about the validity of the original rules?

Huh. I tried white primer, same brand, and it came out fine. Weird.

Mox would be difficult I think. If I get a car I could do Heroic Knight Games in Issaquah. Send me a PM when you have time. Maybe we could sneak in a game while my toddler naps. In the meantime I will find and read the rules. I used to play Necromunda but not Mordheim. Check out The Streets of Malifaux from Terraclips.

I have an interest. I've recently been revamping my fantasy collection including lots of terrain and props. I don't have a car. I can host on weekends in Maple Valley, and I work in downtown Bellevue, so maybe we could work something out.

Make sure you leave the garage door open!

Yeah GW staying in business is a good thing. The models have never been more expensive (which you can say every year, even factoring in inflation) but... the quality has gone up. Models are filling space in interesting ways like never before, lots of tendrils, magic effects, etc. Stuff flying off the big centerpiece models is cool. I remember the days when over 90% of the minis were in static poses, just standing around. Let's face it, scattershot boycotts will never force GW to lower prices, fix rules, bring back specialist games, care about customers, or anything else. I need to restock paints, which is one thing you don't save any money on buying through ebay, etc. If I throw in some Beastmen Gors and bases just for fun, I'm at over $65.

If it's not too late, pick up some of their pewter cables, like the sampler pack. They are 10x as easy to work with as guitar string. They also have modeling chain and other useful accessories.

The figures were not washed. I even tried doing multiple coats, switching to grey on one mini, and I got a glossy, sticky grey. I don't paint a lot of soft plastic minis so this is more of a curiosity topic than a practical need for a solution.

Hi, I just primed some Reaper Bones figures in addition to some plastic and lead ones. I used Rustoleum Flat Black Primer, 2x coverage. It's normally great, only $4 a can and does a good job for me. On the Reaper bones minis which are a flexible white plastic, the spray came out very glossy and tacky. It even looks shiny through a coat or two of paint. The other minis turned out fine, although the Mansions of Madness softer plastic minis (and one rubberized dinosaur) also came out a little glossy. The plastic farm animals, lead D&D minis and all the GW stuff I sprayed at the same time was totally matte and not tacky. Has anyone else experienced something like this?

I'm craving the new disgusting nurgley goodness, but I'm trying to think of a more family friendly request than rotting demonic warriors. Sadistic torturing space elves? Armor plated internal organ looking bugs? Hmmm. What's something you're planning to ask for, buy, or just dreaming about?

It sounds like you got boned in a big way.

Gribbly

Those wracks are sweet. I'm working on a homunculus based detachment for allying.

Good choice, the mats are great and Frontline is worth supporting.

Dr. Dustynutts plz hlp I cont red so gud I be aliteutt help me plz Mister nuttz I Neva did unnrstan a sentince

For the Ork buildings as seen at TSHFT, I mixed sand, sawdust, and other junk in with some cheap craft paint and a little bit of white glue. You could even throw in some dirt. I just glopped this mixture on without priming and it has held up for almost two decades. The metal parts I usually hand painted black first, then drybrushed metal colors, then stippled or washed with reddish browns. If you have any old customer loyalty cards or gift cards they are great to cut up for extra metal plating. Jobz a gud 'un!

My eyepatch is in place, which makes it easier to wink. I have about 8 armies so buying all the rules all the time is out of the question. It helps to limit myself to only having so many unassembled / unpainted models at any given time. I've also saved a ton of money by getting third party models, making cool stuff out of discount bits, scratch building, buying on ebay, and adapting old models to new standards. I never sell models or throw out bits. I still try to avoid netlists and FOTM combos. Check out alternate model sources rather than buying GW retail at full price. For example, I've gotten dragon leg pairs for about $1.50 when the kit sells for $60+. Amass enough bits that others don't want and you can cobble something together. I buy ribbons of green stuff three feet at a time. Want a Knight? Check out used toys on the net or at conventions and think about what you could change. There are a ton of robots for under $20 that would make a good start. MacFarlane Spawn toys are often Knight sized and with a little imagination and work you can make something cool. From what I hear GW is dividend obsessed at the upper levels, and that's their selling point to investors as opposed to promises of major growth like most companies. Maybe it's a British thing. Please don't leave the hobby. Just forget about keeping up with all the latest and greatest trends. Being competitive is fine but there is also something to be said for restraint and honoring the themes of armies. Hop off the treadmill and just paint what you enjoy, and play games with people that aren't munchkins. You could even go back to your existing models and give them more equipment and touch up their paint jobs. Add names to their shoulderpads or dress up their bases. It's all up to you how to proceed.

My google-fu is strong. http://karopka.ru/community/user/15021/?MODEL=341418