warprat Posted January 28, 2016 Report Share Posted January 28, 2016 Hello fellow geeks and geekesses, The other day I was glueing up my fifth Rhino, feeling rather smug, as I noticed my building skills have been slowly improving with each build. Then, as I was finishing off my little masterpiece, I happened to get glue on my fingers and gluey fingerprints all over the model in an attempt to save my fingers from bonding to each other and to the plastic. The Horror! The shame... I scraped a bunch off with my new best friend, the exacto knife, when I noticed that the knife was not removing it without scratching a bit of the surface. Eeeek! I then applied my other best friend, the scrapper, newly purchased at GW. That helped a bit, but I can't help but wonder what this poor model will look like once it is painted. I was using Krazy glue, but recently switched to the ultimate, Loctite Ultragel Control. What do you use? What is the best way to glue up the final top piece that fits over the Rhino? Do you manage to get all the seems and what-not? Is there some sort of liquid, like cooking oil or something, that would help remove glue without scrapping? One final question, the lights... Which way do you glue them? Roundy lights to the inside, or to the outside? Thanks, so much! Warprat 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WestRider Posted January 28, 2016 Report Share Posted January 28, 2016 This is part of why I use plastic cement instead of superglue. It's easier to clean up stuff like that. That said, when I do need superglue (for metal, resin, whatever), Loctite Gel Control is the best I've ever found. You may be able to clean it up by working up through sandpapers and eventually to polishing cloths, to try to get it as smooth as possible. I'd try it on an extra hatch or something first, tho. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Hanaur Posted January 28, 2016 Report Share Posted January 28, 2016 Plastic glue is the way to go for all kinds of reasons. one thing you can do is create some intentional battle damage on the rhino. Just gouge it, paint it silver, then put a brown wash n it to simulate a bit of rusty metal where its been hit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pretre Posted January 28, 2016 Report Share Posted January 28, 2016 Find the fingerprint. Find an appropriate icon, box, flag, etc. Glue on top of fingerprint. Voila! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMGraham Posted January 28, 2016 Report Share Posted January 28, 2016 You can get very fine sandpaper at a hobby store that should do the trick. Testors makes some, I think. However, you should never use superglue on rhinos! That specific activity is cursed. [insert true cautionary tale of gluing together a rhino with superglue 20 years ago and having a drop of superglue fly up into my eye when snapping some pieces together]. Misadventures of youth aside, you should always use plastic glue when the materials are plastic. The bond is so much stronger. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
warprat Posted January 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2016 Hey, thanks! I need to get plastic glue. You get this from a hobby store? What brand do you use? Also, I have... a story... A couple years ago, my wife mixed up the super glue and the eye drops bottle. Some of them do look very similar... She placed a big old drop of super glue right in the middle of her eye. Yes, the Horror, the horror... Immediately realizing what she had done, she ran for the sink and flushed her eye with water. It loosened just a smidge at the widest part of her eye. But most was glued shut. While saying goodbye to her eyeball (under the water), she managed to call the optometrist, then called me at work for an emergency drive. My wife is very good in an emergency. I advised her to place a patch over her good eye, and try not to move her eyeballs, for fear of tearing flesh. We raced to the eye doctor, and he placed some drops in her eye. Long story short, she lucked out with only superficial scratching, and many lost eye lashes (that had to be cut away). Needless to say, "Please don't try this at home kids." LOL! 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WestRider Posted January 28, 2016 Report Share Posted January 28, 2016 I always go with Testor's Plastic Cement. It's pretty widely available, I get it at my local hardware store. One of my buddies swears by GW's Plastic Cement, and I did use that for a while, but it's more expensive, and I didn't find it any better. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tombking Posted January 29, 2016 Report Share Posted January 29, 2016 The best stuff I have used is the Plastruct brush on stuff or any equivalent of that. Really does an awesome job of melting/bonding the plastic together. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PourSpelur Posted January 29, 2016 Report Share Posted January 29, 2016 I'll second the Plastruct brush-on recommendation. Good stuff, takes a bit of mucking around with at first to get used to how it works. On the eyeball injury derail... I used to build fences for a living. While doing a high tension wire a connection snapped causing the wire to snap back around a post and cut across my cornea. At the Optometrists I'm chit chatting with the Doc... Doc "File says you got hurt at work, what do you do?" Me "Oh, I'm a fencer" Doc gets all serious, puts down the eyeball scope and asks "Don't you guys wear those black masks?" ;) 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.