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Yarbicus

Movement Trays

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Warbases makes good MDF trays and bases. Best prices I have seen, even with shipping from the UK. I've had trays show up within 2 weeks and trays show up after a month, so just be warned if you need them in a hurry!

https://warbases.co.uk/

Shogun trays are also good, if you want something a little less "traditional." metal trays means you just need to add the magnets to the bases and you're good to go! Good prices, fast shipping.

http://shogunminiatures.com/

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Death Ray Designs has some nice ones for pretty cheap, though if you have access to a 3D printer, you can make them for pennies on the dollar. I'm going to an Apoc game later this month, and my buddy who's hosting it is printing trays for all of us (for a nominal fee, of course.)

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Once upon a time my dad helped me out by making some wooden trays with a router. He had a jig setup so he got 99% of the material out and then you used a knife to nick out the corners.

10 years later they have held up pretty well, though some have warped a bit. I got a router so I could try this out again but have yet to get around to it.

I have also used Ben's method a couple times and was pretty happy with it. It definitely takes fewer tools than other methods so it's easier to get started.

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18 minutes ago, Brother Glacius said:

I would think a 3D printer would be useful for designing a lip that can be added to a tin sheet. This way you get a nice magnet-friendly base, but no sharp edges. hmmmmmm

The problem is cutting a tin sheet to the proper dimensions. Even with proper "straight cut" tin snips, it is very hard to get a clean straight cut that does not leave small burs and dents in the metal. Although he burs would be less of a problem from your idea (though you have to deal with the burns in so much as they cause a tongue and groove joining not to fit correctly), you still have the problem of curling the metal. 

Many moons ago I made a set of 10 metal sheets to run a skirmishing skink swarm (John I'm sure remembers that disastrous 2v2). It worked great for a crude setup and to just get models on the table, but eventually I moved away from that system. 

Another problem is using neodymium magnets and sheet metal will cause a LOT of magnetic attraction. This will typically cause your magnets to break out of the base, even when superglued and greestuff'ed in. You also have to be careful with models that are 1 footed, or are otherwise not adhered to the bases in a really robust manner, as breaking the model, or pulling it from the base is the second most common side effect. 

 

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4 hours ago, TheBeninator said:

The problem is cutting a tin sheet to the proper dimensions. Even with proper "straight cut" tin snips, it is very hard to get a clean straight cut that does not leave small burs and dents in the metal. Although he burs would be less of a problem from your idea (though you have to deal with the burns in so much as they cause a tongue and groove joining not to fit correctly), you still have the problem of curling the metal.

 

As long as you aren't using galvanized steel sheet metal, you can just use a light duty torch to melt away the burrs/sharp edges. Really easy.

Would probably work with tin too, but, yuck, tin...steel's way better.

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6 hours ago, TheBeninator said:

The problem is cutting a tin sheet to the proper dimensions. Even with proper "straight cut" tin snips, it is very hard to get a clean straight cut that does not leave small burs and dents in the metal. Although he burs would be less of a problem from your idea (though you have to deal with the burns in so much as they cause a tongue and groove joining not to fit correctly), you still have the problem of curling the metal. 

Using steel shingles from Home Depot, I use snips to get a straight cut, then a ball peen hammer to flatten out the crinkles (typically on the flat shelf of a vice). Prime the whole tray black, no problem. My movement trays have plenty of issues, but wrinkled metal is not one of them.

Fun fact, the shingles are 5" wide, so for all of us normal size armies, you only have to cut one dimension. This really helps with the straight lines.

 

6 hours ago, TheBeninator said:

Many moons ago I made a set of 10 metal sheets to run a skirmishing skink swarm (John I'm sure remembers that disastrous 2v2). It worked great for a crude setup and to just get models on the table, but eventually I moved away from that system. 

Was this the one at WOW? I recall Plague Monks vs Saurus Warriors... Or another... I have a long history of disastrous 2v2s.

 

6 hours ago, TheBeninator said:

Another problem is using neodymium magnets and sheet metal will cause a LOT of magnetic attraction. This will typically cause your magnets to break out of the base, even when superglued and greestuff'ed in. You also have to be careful with models that are 1 footed, or are otherwise not adhered to the bases in a really robust manner, as breaking the model, or pulling it from the base is the second most common side effect. 

This is what I used for all my rats. I went through two phases: hot glue and epoxy. You have two problems with using neodymium magnets. The first is that you have to use small ones so you can, you know, remove your models. This means there will be a gap if you super glue it to the bottom of the base. The second is the  strength of the magnets breaking things off. I used hot glue at first because it solved the first problem by acting as a spacer. However, after my first tournament I probably had 40 magnets (out of 200+ models) stacked up on my tray that had fallen off. At first I would just glue them back on. Hot glue is cheap after all. After a few years I got fed up with hot glue and started researching other solutions. I came across the plastic epoxy that I linked before. It is thick enough to space the magnet off the base and allow for better contact with the metal, and it is strong enough to not break off after a single use.

I still have to repair a few models before each tournament, but the numbers are way down from before. Most of the broken ones end up being hot glue that I never replaced. For example, this week I glued six magnets. Two never had them, two were old hot glue and the last two were epoxy. 

One suggestion that I've seen but never followed is to scratch up the magnet before gluing it. The theory is that this will help the epoxy to bond to the magnet better. I have had plenty of success without this. Unfortunately all of my metal scratching tools are.. metal... and the magnets are small. I try not to cut my fingers as much as possible, so I skipped that step.

Last comment on the epoxy: it is decently expensive, but I have managed to do about 80% of my 300+ model army (as they break) and I've only used two tubes. The trick is to do as many models at once as possible so that you minimize the amount that dries on your mixing surface.

 

2 hours ago, paxmiles said:

As long as you aren't using galvanized steel sheet metal, you can just use a light duty torch to melt away the burrs/sharp edges. Really easy.

Hmm. Looks like the 5"x8" steel shingles I get are galvanized. Maybe they have non-galvanized ones...

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On 8/15/2019 at 9:16 PM, valourunbound said:

Hmm. Looks like the 5"x8" steel shingles I get are galvanized. Maybe they have non-galvanized ones...

Galvanized = cheap rustproofing

So shingles are likely only galvanized at home depot.

Steel is really cheap if you go to a metal supply store, they'll usually cut it for you, especially if it doesn't need to be super exact. Just often have to buy a lot. Home Depot metal is at a premium for people not buying very much.

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On 8/15/2019 at 9:16 PM, valourunbound said:

Hmm. Looks like the 5"x8" steel shingles I get are galvanized. Maybe they have non-galvanized ones...

Technically, the torch approach will still work on galvanized steel. But it will create lots of poisonous fumes when you do so. I don't recommend it, but if you find yourself doing it anyway, make sure you have a carbon filter mask on and real ventilation (as in fans that suck the air out).

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11 hours ago, paxmiles said:

Technically, the torch approach will still work on galvanized steel. But it will create lots of poisonous fumes when you do so. I don't recommend it, but if you find yourself doing it anyway, make sure you have a carbon filter mask on and real ventilation (as in fans that suck the air out).

What are you talking about “torch approach”, are you referring to an acetylene torch? I doubt a torch would work any better than snips. It’s a bit overkill.

@valourunbound what epoxy do you use? I need somthing better than superglue.

that 2v2 btw was at pgs during 8th edition. You and I vs. Terell and Brad. I brought only skink skirmishes, which basically just got in your way all game. That was good times

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3 minutes ago, TheBeninator said:

 what epoxy do you use? I need somthing better than superglue.

 

On 8/15/2019 at 9:16 PM, valourunbound said:

This is what I used for all my rats. I went through two phases: hot glue and epoxy.

I guess I had poor link placement. Putting it at the beginning when nobody is going to click it probably was not wise.

3 minutes ago, TheBeninator said:

that 2v2 btw was at pgs during 8th edition. You and I vs. Terell and Brad. I brought only skink skirmishes, which basically just got in your way all game. That was good times

Oh man that was a long time ago. Oh gosh was this with 10+ units of skirmishers? I can picture this madness. It brings me pain.

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2 hours ago, TheBeninator said:

What are you talking about “torch approach”, are you referring to an acetylene torch? I doubt a torch would work any better than snips. It’s a bit overkill.

Acetylene (+oxy) would certainly be faster, but I was thinking more of a regular (small) propane torch. Not sure if it would be hot enough on it's own, or if you'd need the oxy too.

And the goal isn't cutting, it's just to melt the sharp edges round, after cutting via another means. In reference to this earlier post of mine:

On 8/15/2019 at 6:55 PM, paxmiles said:

As long as you aren't using galvanized steel sheet metal, you can just use a light duty torch to melt away the burrs/sharp edges. Really easy.

Would probably work with tin too, but, yuck, tin...steel's way better.

For home use, I would avoid acetylene if you can. Crazy dangerous.

And I agree, snips are much easier for cutting. Was just referring to ways to remove the sharp edges left after using snips. Since the sharp points are thinner than the surrounding metal, the torch will melt the sharp parts first, leaving your piece without sharp edges or burrs, but not really damaging the base metal.

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17 hours ago, valourunbound said:

 

I guess I had poor link placement. Putting it at the beginning when nobody is going to click it probably was not wise.

Oh man that was a long time ago. Oh gosh was this with 10+ units of skirmishers? I can picture this madness. It brings me pain.

Haha, you said to me "OK, whatever you do, dont charge this unit because I need to shoot at it".

Beginning of turn: "Well, Ripperdactyls fail frenzy, CHARGE!!!"

John: "I hate you...."

One of my fondest memories of WHFB. We lost that game, badly...

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