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Kingdoms of Equality-tane


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44 minutes ago, Ish said:

70 mm would just be a really weird scale... We're talking something like 1:18 scale. The closest approximation I can think of would be the 3.75" G.I. Joe: A Real American Hero action figures of the Eighties.

Price is in € anyway, so we know they're weirdos for choosing such a goofy currency....(I tease).

More seriously, they could have just modeled and picked the scale in hindsight. If it's not part of a set, and is more of a one-off art project, scale could very well have been determined after completion. It would certainly be easier to make models if you determined the scale after finishing...

But at this point I'm just debating. You are probably right on this one.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Progress!

No more clocking, but I did finish the rest of this unit in 1 evening!

caviesx.jpg

JFUvaV4.jpg

Final impressions:

Darker colors are too dark, after the strong tone they just all look way too dark. 

The horses are mainly convex, so the shade does not stick to them well therefore its hard to get any real detail out of them. They are excellent candidates for actual painting, but I am reluctant to speed too much time on any of that.

The capes on the other hand are concave, so the strong tone just pools like crazy. I should have been a bit more careful in my application on the capes, or consider using a lighter tone next time.

I also realized as I was posting this that I need to do a matt varnish coat to try and take off some of the luster from the strong tone. 

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So they're not going to win you a Golden Daemon painting award? Bah, they still look damn good if you ask me. 

A fully painted army where nearly every model has a individualized design, yet the entire army has a cohesive and unified look is a lot more impressive than an army of bare plastic led by a single hero with an award winning paint job. 

You might have better results with your next batch of cavalry if you put a base coat on the horse then drybrush them with a lighter shade of the same color prior to washing (Space Marines are pretty much all convex surfaces too and this has worked well with my Imperial Fists). Then use a strong tone on the darker horses, medium tone on the lighter horses, and stick to a light tone on the riders. It would mean painting and washing them separately, then assembling, which might require pinning the riders to their mounts (I'm not exactly sure if the Fireforge models have a peg for the riders or not.) But that shouldn't be too difficult. 

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Decisions, decisions.

Do I build 24 archers?

Or do I build 24 heavy infantry?

Considering the upcoming campaign, I am partly drawn to the archers for the obvious "defensive action"

At the same time.... Forlorn Knights are pretty neat defensively with heavy armor + shield, the blessing; BECAUSE THE LADY CARES!, and a bastard sword which can be used as a spear in the first round of combat (bringing them to agility 6?!).

Also, they NEGATE devastating charge. So people who plan on cycle charging them with cavalry will suffer from limp lance syndrome.
 

Without a solid way to decide, I think I am going to have to build them BOTH.
The next two weekends are going to be very busy 😮

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1 hour ago, TheBeninator said:

At the same time.... Forlorn Knights are pretty neat defensively with heavy armor + shield, the blessing; BECAUSE THE LADY CARES!, and a bastard sword which can be used as a spear in the first round of combat (bringing them to agility 6?!).

Also, they NEGATE devastating charge. So people who plan on cycle charging them with cavalry will suffer from limp lance syndrome.

Looking at those after you mentioned them. Interesting and annoying. I do have units with devastating charge that would be annoyed by this tactic.

Though worth noting that the Spear bonus to agility only applies if we charge from the front. No bonus agility for flank or rear charges against your unit. And the spear doesn't have any strength bonus.

Plus if you use the spear+shield instead of a hand weapon+shield, you don't have parry. Bastard Sword strikes last without parry, so yeah, some tough choices. Still, interesting unit.

 

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On 12/16/2019 at 10:21 AM, TheBeninator said:

Darker colors are too dark, after the strong tone they just all look way too dark.

This was one of the big things I had to re-learn when I started working with those inks. I tend to go for pretty dark/muted colour schemes, but I have to get out of my comfort zone into brighter colours if I want them to still show up after the shade.

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22 hours ago, WestRider said:

This was one of the big things I had to re-learn when I started working with those inks. I tend to go for pretty dark/muted colour schemes, but I have to get out of my comfort zone into brighter colours if I want them to still show up after the shade.

I paint in an area with poor lighting. The result is rather bright paint schemes.

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On 12/20/2019 at 5:15 PM, Ish said:

More peasants is always better than less peasants... As long as they stay out in the fields or down in the kitchens. Less peasants in the ball room and dining hall is obviously better than more.

I just ordered another box of 48 rabble :D. My "cavalry army" wont have cavalry for quite some time.

Got all the sprues ready for base coats which I am about to start. Pre-processing was washing/scrubbing. Then I do a bunch of pre-cuts on the sprue (so that there is typically just 1 or 2 points where the bit attaches to the sprue). Then I cut away all the parts of the sprue close to the previously cut sprue points, that way I can get my airbrush/brush in there easier. 

These two boxes have been pretty good about where the sprues attach to the bits. For perhaps 70% of the bits, the points of contact are in attachment areas, so I don't have to repaint after pulling from the sprue.

The other 30%, primarily shields, will require a bit of touching up.

I am sold on sprue-painting, its the beast.

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Progress for an afternoon:

All of the 3 main base colors (red, blue, green) are done. Working on the skin currently (need to finish hands and necks).

After that will be belts, shoes, bows, quivers, swords (for some lucky peasants), and helmets. The archers are without shields so that cuts down on painting time pretty significantly. This unit is probably half way done?

Ill also need to make up some stakes for the free stake wall they get. That'll be easy with toothpicks and a bit of green stuff. Keeping my eyes open for decent braziers, or something to remind me that they can set their arrows on fire. The wiz kids minis, or whatever it is that makes the D&D stuff has a couple braziers, but they look like they should be in a dungeon, not hauled around on the battlefield.

I really like that the archers come in a box of 24, as that is a perfect 3 ranks of line formation to use with volley fire!

Also not shown is that the footknights got based white and their faces were painted. Still wafting on the color scheme, ill share some potentials soon.

27TGnMt.jpg

Also I put together a unit filler. War Yak! Another on the way. Casting some more crates out of green stuff first.

uYoGTHI.jpg

YMF3BBF.jpg

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5 minutes ago, Andrewgeddon said:

why not? Adds more character to the unit, and helps break up the monotony of a large infantry block.

No objection to unit fillers as a concept, I just think your paint scheme is varied enough where they look quite good without unit fillers.

If you want more flavor, have you considering making your front rank shields spell things? Especially since you have large units likely deployed next to each other.

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1 hour ago, TheBeninator said:

I’m just using the yaks to fill in space. Peasants come in boxes of 48. Units are min 30, or max 60. Therefore, 1 box +2 yaks is either 1 full unit or two min units.

thats also 12 peasants I don’t have to paint

and yaks follow the rule of cool

I guess I just really like your peasants.

Anywho, your call.

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