Stoobert

I found that increasing the amount of Future in the mix makes in "sink in" to the cracks more. Do the rest of you concur? Thanks for the suggestion of Higgins Black Ink, I will try that next time.

I created some U-turn templates myself (with Photoshop) and printed out some. You can have one next time we play. The next day is the 29th at noon.

My next weekend availability is Sunday the 29th at noon. I have to take this weekend off but have a blast (beam, kinetic, or nuclear, your choice hehehe) this weekend and try to keep the ball rolling if you can. PS. I have printed out "u-turn" templates and will share.

I can be at Guardian this Sunday the 15th at noon. I'll reserve a couple of tables. Please note this is Father's Day, if that affects your plans.

Great work! Come play with us sometime at Guardian.

Doug (Ryushi) showed up today for a learning game. Count one more for Kurak!

A poor man's Punisher is a Tau bit. The diameter of the Burst Cannon is the same. Being the moron that I am and I gave away, sold, or lost the spare barrels for my Russ... I have to improvise.

This Master compressor is the best I've found for the money but the airbrush it comes with sucks. The fixtures are for an Iwata or Iwata knockoff brush, so buy adapters to fit the brush to compressor if you don't get an Iwata brush. As far as the brush itself I've heard Badger is good. Paasche is the one I have but it's more expesive than Badger and not particularly better I don't think. Strain your paint by pouring it through pantyhose into the pot. This will save you hours of clogging headaches.

Oh, great news! Sorry for my misinterpretation.

Let's use this thread for Guardian FSA weekend games. Jared can you change the title a bit to indicate the location? I'll stop using this one. http://www.ordofanaticus.com/index.php?/topic/21471-next-guardian-games-fsa-day-jun-8th-at-noon/ I'll be at Guardian on this Sunday the 8th at 12noon.

Thanks! Ouch, that's a pretty big restriction - 24" is a long ways out. I like the Colossus a lot but might have to reconsider it for my army.

The Colossus (now Forgeworld rules) has a range of 24" - 240" but "Cannot Fire Directly". With the new 7th Ed rules does this mean: 1. it cannot ever get its BS skill subtracted from scatter dice 2. it cannot fire under 24" Or something else I don't get? Thx.

Great game Jared. The Terrans' first enconter with the sneaky Rethozans was an excellent learning game yet the Terran commander was caught off guard by unfamiliar abilities and made a cruicial blunder spitting his fleet. This resulted in a fun battle but overwhelming defeat. That escaped Carrier will have its revenge one day! I'll see you guys this Sunday the 8th and I'll be available anytime on the 15th as well (or Sat the 14th after 5pm).

Sweet! Paint red lines on those landing pads, blue/green windows, and some gunmetal on those cannons and you're good!

Yes thanks so much! I'm even giving him carapace armor so he might survive his Chimera exploding!

A few kit bashes and simple conversions, painted to match my existing army. I try to get something new for every OFCC. Yarrick's claw is from a Mechwarrior Koshi and it's the perfect size. Thanks Aventine for the Last Chancer who will be joining one of my vet squads! His paint scheme was nearly identical to my own, I just painted a mowhawk and redid his glasses.

No, I found these stencils on eBay for $10. They are high quality, almost too much so, the mylar is tough to bend around bumps.

Keep in mind this Saturday is a big 40k event. I'm not playing but it will be crowded. I'll be there observing and helping out my friend who is the TO. If you show up I'll probably be able to play at noon if space allows. 800pts?

Killer deal, especially since it comes with cards, tokens and a rulebook. PS. I sold the 'station' for $25 fixed price on eBay. It's not really a playable piece and the legs are so fragile that transporting it to games is not advisable.

Whelp, had a game with these yesterday. It's a known science fact that fully painted Terrans roll better Shield dice. A matte coat (I use Krylon Flat Acryilic) is a must for resin. After the matte coat THEN do the metal bits (I use Model Air Alumimum) and then hit it with a dark wash to make it look gunmetal - I use Army Painter Dark tone in a small dropper bottle.

I would play Firestorm Armada on Fri. Keep me posted please via PM. MikahilLenin may be interested as well.

So you may have seen this game, finally I found some people to play it with and so I assembled some of the Spartan Games models which I think look very cool and also some Quantum Expanse models which substitute for the Terrans in some cases. I've found all the models to be easy to work with. The resin is good quality and just a little cleaning, cutting of flash and sanding is all that's necessary. The Hawker solar panels are a chore but look great so it's worth it. I'm using Army Painter White Primer as the base. No complaints. I use an airbrush to do the yellow and red lines and hex camo. You just can't freehand lines like that. I used Magic Wash but was disappointed with the results in some cases. When it dries quick it looks better, so I put it under a heat lamp. Models which got too dark from the wash get the sh-i-t drybrushed out of them, now look ok. Initially I was disappointed with the look of the dark-with-blue-hexagons stealth Destroyers but now they are warming up to me. I'm thinking of some hard black accents to make them more stealthy. A tale of two battleships. Both started primed white. The one above got a black wash. The one below got a tan paint, which I think looks great. Before the wash After 3 coats of wash, airbrushed on. Engage steath suite! Painting panels a couple shades of blue for effect, then drybrushing white looks pretty rad. Before the wash After the wash Notice how the smaller ships here are darker cause they got washed twice. They got more white drybrushing to compensate. I'll need to redo the red marks. Oh well.

I've mixed up my own batch and used it. For about 30 seconds after application, the lines and details are crystal clear, deep black, look awesome. Then as it dries, the ink seems less dark in the crevases. Once it dries it ends up looking like the model is just dirty on the flat surfaces. It's almost as if the liquid "osmosisizes" (that's not a real word I know) itself out of the cracks. Same experience anyone? I have a potential solution which I call "flash dry". Dip/wash/spray the model and place directly under a hot lamp. I use a desk lamp from WalMart that is not a 'heat lamp' per se but does put a lot of light and heat out. This seems to dry the model before the magic is lost. The downside is this "flash dry" makes it shiny-er but I'm clear matte coating them anyway so don't care.