imperialjawa Posted May 27, 2015 Report Share Posted May 27, 2015 Hi...I was asked to if i could make a tutorial on how I make my bases. I have been making bases this way for years now, after my friend Joel (bigtal) showed it to me how to do it. Its quit simple and can produce some nice results. first collect your supplies. Bases Cork CA glue Clippers Paints Brush Flock(optional, not pictured) glue the base to the cork break the base out of the largeer cork piece trim the cork with clippers or fingers use the cast-offs to add interesting features to larger bases (for 28mm bases I skip this as the models usually fill the base) paint the base BLLAAAACK! dry brush a medium grey lightly dry brush a light grey add flock to taste(sometimes I skip this step) repainted the rim of the base black to finish it off Now your base is ready for a model. Sometimes I use bitz from my bitsbox and/or vallejo pumice for added detail. Hope this is useful to someone 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imperialjawa Posted May 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2015 here are some samples 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WestRider Posted May 27, 2015 Report Share Posted May 27, 2015 One of these days, I'm going to have to go back and rebase my Nids like this. These would be perfect for them. Thanks for the tutorial! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doc Posted May 27, 2015 Report Share Posted May 27, 2015 Great tutorial, but I have one small problem with using cork as a base... It looks like cork! I think, especially when stacking layers, modellers need to use more fill (spackle, textured gel etc) to remove the obviousness of the layers. The top also needs texturing. It's not easy, I'll give you that, but every time I see models based on cork, I think... "Ah, more Irish armies!" 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
InfestedKerrigan Posted May 27, 2015 Report Share Posted May 27, 2015 Thanks for doing the basing Tut, mang! I was on my way to the store to pick up primer and drill bits for the Knight I picked up yesterday and now I think I'm getting some cork board, too. Curses! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gorgosaurusrex Posted May 27, 2015 Report Share Posted May 27, 2015 How do you prevent the cork from chipping? My entire Space Wolves army is based like this but after years of gameplay the painted cork is flaking off around the edges, revealing unpainted cork beneath. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted May 28, 2015 Report Share Posted May 28, 2015 Main issue I've found is that metal models need more pinning with cork. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imperialjawa Posted May 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2015 Well, I am not overly concerned with little chips, personally. My philosophy on models is if it looks good at arms length it will look good on the table and that's what I'm usually going for. I am not a pro-painter so all I'm trying to do is have a nice tabletop presence. None of the models I have painted look super great up close but do look nice on the table, or at lest that's what I have been told ;) So I am not bothered by little chips and if its super obvious I'll just retouch it. I don't find it a big deal. In my experience I haven't had a metal model fall off a cork base. Though I have found heavy metal models need more pinning as whole and pinning both feet has always been a must no matter the type of base I used. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
InfestedKerrigan Posted May 28, 2015 Report Share Posted May 28, 2015 So, do you pin the Plastic Models, or do you find the adhesion to be sufficient? How about the Warhound, was he pinned, or just glued straight down? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bosco Posted May 28, 2015 Report Share Posted May 28, 2015 So, do you pin the Plastic Models, or do you find the adhesion to be sufficient? How about the Warhound, was he pinned, or just glued straight down? In my own using cork bases, I always pin the model's foot/feet through the cork into the plastic base below with a length of wire/rod. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imperialjawa Posted May 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2015 I haven't found the need to pin any plastic models they all seem to stay attached...unless they fall off the table which is never good. The titan is pinned with massive brass rods in both feet down into the wooden base. The need to remove the base for transport dictated it is not glued to the base, but with the large pins into very tight holes make it very secure while slotted into the base. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
InfestedKerrigan Posted May 29, 2015 Report Share Posted May 29, 2015 I tell ya, there isn't quite anything like working on your hobby in the nude, enjoying a beer and a bowl in the sun. The finer things of Oregon life. Shut up, I know it's not good beer. If I'm going to drink 5% beer, I want to enjoy it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sammy Posted May 29, 2015 Report Share Posted May 29, 2015 Thanks for not making it a selfie ;) 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
InfestedKerrigan Posted May 29, 2015 Report Share Posted May 29, 2015 With these tan lines, no thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
InfestedKerrigan Posted May 29, 2015 Report Share Posted May 29, 2015 An afternoons progress. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WestRider Posted May 29, 2015 Report Share Posted May 29, 2015 I thought those were cookies in the first pic. Mmmm, delicious cork! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
generalripphook Posted May 30, 2015 Report Share Posted May 30, 2015 See I like the cork for smaller models but for the bigger bases where you layer it, it just looks too craigly. Although I think it'd make an amazing terrain for a Mines of Moria table. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
InfestedKerrigan Posted May 30, 2015 Report Share Posted May 30, 2015 I was curious how it would come out. I'm interested in doing some Utah style rock formations with the cork on some larger bases, or terrain, perhaps. I completely understand not liking how those pointy parts came out. I was mostly experimenting, but I'm extremely happy with the results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMGraham Posted May 30, 2015 Report Share Posted May 30, 2015 Great tutorial, but I have one small problem with using cork as a base... It looks like cork! I think, especially when stacking layers, modellers need to use more fill (spackle, textured gel etc) to remove the obviousness of the layers. The top also needs texturing. It's not easy, I'll give you that, but every time I see models based on cork, I think... "Ah, more Irish armies!" How do you prevent the cork from chipping? My entire Space Wolves army is based like this but after years of gameplay the painted cork is flaking off around the edges, revealing unpainted cork beneath. Main issue I've found is that metal models need more pinning with cork. I think the solution to these issues might be to make a solid assortment of cork bases. Maybe 10 different 25mms, etc. Take your time with spackle and texturing to get them looking just as you like them. Then make a mold of them and cast them in resin. You'll end up with unique bases that look good, are durable, and really good for adhering models. You can get trial kits that are perfect for this sized project from Smooth-on, or stores like Michaels have cheaper (not as high quality and less expensive) materials you can use. The ubiquitous 40% off coupon makes it even cheaper. Great tutorial! I personally like the look of cork bases. I think of them as a classic war gaming style that makes me feel all comfy and cozy. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psilence Posted May 31, 2015 Report Share Posted May 31, 2015 Looking good IK :) great tutorial jawa:) I like the 'craggy' look. I've been trying to decide how to base a raven wing project, and thing this would look great. Where do you guys buy your cork? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
InfestedKerrigan Posted May 31, 2015 Report Share Posted May 31, 2015 I picked up 3-4 pieces 1x1 for 4 or 5 bucks at Wal Mart in Office Supplies. JoAnns and Michaels would probably have more variety in thickness. What i picked up is about 3/16" thick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sammy Posted May 31, 2015 Report Share Posted May 31, 2015 Sheet corkboard can be picked up at most office supply stores in tile packs, Fred Meyer and other local grocers may carry them as well. Pet stores will also carry natural cork (not sheet). Different stores may vary, but it's usually sold by weight and you can select whatever piece you want. It's pretty cheap. For a PDX local option, Pets on Broadway has this type of product available. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psilence Posted May 31, 2015 Report Share Posted May 31, 2015 Awesome guys :) Tyvm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay Posted June 2, 2015 Report Share Posted June 2, 2015 So the best solution to the cork texture that I have found is woodland scenics flex paste. If you paint a coat of that on to the cork it covers up the very visible and readable textures. Combining this with slicing more into the layers instead of just leaving them flat you can make some amazing things. Also the flex paste strengthens the cork so that pinning and chipping are not problems. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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