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Jim's Terrain Project Log


JMGraham

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I like the middle door as it would be easy to paint the stripes of three without locking in that level of detail

 

Of course! Really good point.

 

I like door #2

 

So Jim, what is your plan for initial construction? 3D print, CNC, Scratch build with plasticard?

 

3d print. Given the details involved, my 3d printer isn't quite up to snuff. My initial test print of a wall would have taken way too much post processing to get castable. It was easy to sand the flat Dwarven ruins walls, but these have too much detail for my printer.

 

I had a trial print done of a wall section from Shapeways, and it turned out fine. I'll finish it through priming and sanding (and repeating as necessary), and will glue 1mm beads into the divots for rivets. Then I'll mold it and cast a bunch of the individual pieces in resin.  Then I'll glue together walls and columns into different arrangements, and those will be the masters for the final casts.

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Thanks!

 

My brother-in-law and his family just spent their spring break with us. He designs firearms for a living (the Ulfbehrt, from Alexander Arms is his design), and knows tons about industrial manufacturing, injection molding, and the like. Based on our conversations I went through and redesigned the pieces I've done so far to add a 2 to 5 degree draft angle to any piece that doesn't have to be perfectly vertical. The idea is that it will let air get behind the mold quickly when de-molding, so that you're not stressing the mold by pulling vacuum behind the model. I also reduced my overhangs from .05 to .03 inches. Hopefully that'll make things easier on the molds in the long-run, without affecting the quality of the model.  I'll know in a couple weeks when the pieces are printed, finished, and molded.

 

As a side note, going back and adding a tilt to a whole bunch of stuff you had finished already is a lot more of a pain than it seems. Time and time again, I'm struck by the fact that understanding the complete manufacturing and shipping process is hugely important when doing creative design work.

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Worry not! When the time comes I'll be shilling the heck out of it. At this point, it's really a question of whether they turn out to be feasible to mass-produce in terms of the molds, and whether the amount of resin and mold material used makes them worth it from a pricing perspective. I've done my best to reduce costs (making the pillar hollow, for example), but I've got no clue how much resin they'll take.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Coming along with the design. It looks like it's going to be a resin hog, so I'm not sure that it'll be viable as a commercial product, but I'll at least sell a few to recoup my development costs. I need to redesign the large door, as it's too unwieldy for my hamfisted casting technique, but here's some stuff I've got so far.

 

Pq3w07i.jpg

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Nope, no need to. Open-faced molds with some Ease Release 200 and a dusting of baby powder does the trick. I've only used my pressure pot for smaller pieces in 2-part molds and even then, I'm not sure it's necessary. I'd sell my pressure pot (it's a purpose-built one for casting, not a Harbor Freight rehab), but as soon as I did I know I'd need it for something.

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Great minds think alike!

 

Here's what I had made, but what I was too lazy to walk downstairs to photograph. My main regret is that I didn't make a recess in the columns in which the cap pieces can fit. At this point, it would cost another $60 (likely $100, when considering resin and silicone) to produce that, and another two-week delay. If this was something I was sure would work as a commercial product, I'd do it in a heartbeat, but I'll still have to sink in a fair amount of silicone before I know if it's production worthy, or just a really expensive DIY project. My inclination is to do it the right way, but I'm also impatient and cheap.

 

7FdPO5U.jpg

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